AQUARIUM & POND ANSWERS;
Freshwater, Marine, Sick Fish, Lighting, Baths

 

AKA Angelfish Aids, Angel Virus

By Carl Strohmeyer
Updated 6/12/19

This can be a very virulent and devastating disease.
All exposed angelfish that are not immune will come down with symptoms within 2-4 days of exposure. Sometimes sooner, as “Angelfish Aids” as it is sometime known as, is highly infectious.

I witnessed many angelfish from fish farms in Southeast Asia that came in as carriers of this virulent infection in the 1990s; as a result many large angelfish breeding operations closed and there was a shortage of angelfish in the retail trade.
During this time, I found some small scale angelfish breeders that were able to avoid exposure to this virus and keep me and others supplied with healthy stock

SYMPTOMS:

Clamped fins, excess slime, listless with nose pointed up slightly, usually with the fish on the bottom of the aquarium (unlike Gill Flukes which would have the fish at the surface).
It has an approximately 3 week infectious period. This disease is quite virulent and if an angelfish survives the virus, it may become a carrier for up to six months.

These symptoms can also be caused by other infectious diseases such as Ichthyophonus fungi infections (which are internal), but show similar external symptoms in later stages of the disease.
However one major difference in external symptoms is that the progression of Angelfish Aids/Virus is much quicker than Ichthyophonus, often going from healthy and vibrant to sickly to death in as little as 3-5 days. It is also noteworthy that Ichthyophonus is generally a cold water fish disease

Do not also confuse Angelfish Aids/Virus with internal worm infections such as Nematodes or Annelids as these parasitic worm infections often have a bulge in the lower abdomen near the vent, or worms protruding from the anus. As well the progression is again generally not nearly as quick as Angelfish Virus/Aids. Often internal parasite infections can go on for weeks of slowly more noticeable symptoms.
Parasites such as Gill Flukes cause some similar symptoms, although again the progression of Gill Fluke symptoms is much slower than Angelfish Virus as often gill fluke symptoms slowly appear over a week or more time.
Further Reference: Fish Parasites; Worms, Nematodes, Gill Flukes, Treatment, ID

If you suspect that a quarantined fish has this virus, I recommend that you destroy the fish. The risk of spread is too high to keep a potentially infected fish around.

Here is a video of the fish pictured above in a video format; this fish is showing most of the classic symptoms of Angelfish Virus from which I have seen many times (especially during outbreaks during the 1990s).
I also sent the video link to friend in the professional maintenance business that confirmed this.
The other possible diagnosis is Gill Flukes, however as per the owner of this angelfish, the progression of the disease, nor the fish resting on the tank bottom does not indicate a diagnosis of Gill Flukes.

Video Courtesy DaharkazAngel

MODE OF DISEASE TRANSFER

This is where there is not clear evidence (scientific that is), all I have is my observations as well as speaking with other aquarium maintenance professionals experience and brief non-scientific articles about Angelfish Virus.
I will provide a few observations/theories (please note that these are not proven at the time of writing this article):

• Direct transfer in the water column; this seems to be the main mode of transference, which of course quarantine or purchasing of fish from a known good source can help prevent.
  As well I have noted that UV Sterilization has helped check the spread of Angelfish Aids to non-immune/exposed fish (which further supports this theory that a Level 1 UV Sterilizer can also improve Redox and thus fish immunity, as a UV cannot prevent the spread via feces or similar)


• Transfer via infected water, decorations, or even plants; this is similar to the above and similar preventative measures as above should be taken to prevent this mode of transfer


• Transfer via direct contact/feces; I personally do not support this mode of transfer as I have not observed it nor has the few tests to check the spread bear this out, however a few knowledgeable persons I know (or read) have postulated this.


• Incubation of the virus; as noted in the symptoms section of this article, it has been espoused that a fish can be a carrier for up to six months.

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TREATMENT:

Since immunity is the objective, it is important to keep the angelfish comfortable while giving the immune system time to fight this virus (if it can).
Part of the problem is this virus moves so fast, the fish’ immune system cannot respond quick enough, so optimal conditions is a must.
This includes the little known among aquarists parameter of Redox Balance which may be quite important for immunity during times of viral infection)
Also as per Redox, it is noteworthy that my incidence of Angel Fish Virus deaths was considerably higher in aquariums kept in low pH environments under 6.5. This is likely due to the poor Redox balance in low pH aquariums since acidic environments are oxidizing and allow for little or no Redox Reduction!!

Secondary bacterial and Fungal/Saprolegnia infections are also often issues during Angelfish Aids infections from my experience.

Further Information/Reference:
Understanding the Aquarium Redox Potential for Fish Health

Product Source: EcoSense ORP 15 Redox Meter

Steps:

• Removal of any bright lights from the aquarium.
  A darkened quarantine tank with a seasoned Sponge Filter is strongly recommended).
  Product Source: Premium Aquarium Sponge Filters, only from AAP


• A medicated Bath utilizing Methylene Blue is recommended.
  Further Information: Fish Bath, Dips, Aquarium Answers
  
  Product Source: Methylene Blue from AAP


• Treatment (again preferable in quarantine for Angelfish Virus), may include a “cocktail” of AAP Super Ich or SeaChem ParaGuard and Naladixic Acid (or substitute Naladixic Acid with AAP Spectrogram Nitrofurazone/Kanamycin if unavailable, however Naladixic Acid is the medication of choice for this infection).
  The use of an AAP Medicated Wonder Shell instead of the Super Ich/ParaGuard provides even more of a strong cocktail kick from my experience/use.
  
  Product Sources:
  *AAP Super Ich Plus, (Strongest Available Ich Treatment)
  *SeaChem ParaGuard; Anti fungal, viral, virus treatment; from AAP
  *AAP Naladixic Acid (Naladin)
  *AAP Spectrogram (Pharmaceutical Grade & Synergistic Combination)
  *Nitrofurazone (Furan 2) from AAP
  *SeaChem Kanaplex anti bacterial from AAP
  *AAP Medicated Wonder Shell


• Treat as the medications suggest until symptoms are gone plus 3 days


• Partial water changes between each treatment along with strict monitoring of water parameters; ammonia, nitrites, even GH & KH is a must.
  Slowly increasing mineral cations in a low pH aquarium may help by improving Redox balance. The use of mineral blocks such as Wonder Shells in 1/4 does is a simple but effective way to perform this.
  Product Source: Wonder Shells, Unique AAP Version not sold elsewhere


• The addition of a Level 1 or 2 capable UV Sterilizer to the main display tank while the fish are in quarantined is strongly urged to aid in stopping the water borne spread of the virus and improve Redox Balance.
  This is a MUST to check the spread of this disease! Even if all your angels died, it is essential to prevent new angles or other fish that might be added later to contract this insidious infection.
  I also suggest not replacing your angels for at least two weeks.
  
  Also once added, maintenance of the UV Sterilizer is a must by changing the UV Bulb once every six months with a low pressure level 1 capable UVC bulb (which if you are shopping a discounter like eBay or Amazon, likely you will get a 1/4 output medium pressure UV lamp)!
  
  Product Sources:
  *True Level 1 Aquarium or Pond UV Sterilizers
  *Level 1 Capable Low Pressure UV Bulbs; American Aquarium

SUMMARY:

Although I have given a method of treatment, please do not let me give the reader too much false hope; as even with strictly following this treatment regimen, chances of success are less than 50% from my experience (many aquarists choose to put the fish down rather than to treat and this is a valid option in my humble opinion as well).
However I have also had success with this treatment regimen (much more so than doing nothing), so if you are willing or able to strictly follow it, you may have success.

Either way, with success, failure, or putting the fish down; prevention of spread to other angelfish (or some other fish as well) should be considered.
Multiple water changes, optimum water parameters, UV Sterilization, and holding off from adding other angelfish for 3-6 months should all be considered.

Further Information:
*Aquarium Cleaning, Water Change Methods, more
*Aquarium Chemistry; For Optimum Water Parameters

Other Recommended Reference & Product Sites

Aquarium UV Sterilization
The MOST in depth and accurate article about maintaining level 1 UV Sterilization and how to choose the correct UV Sterilizer

Aquarium Lighting, Freshwater & Saltwater
The largest data base of aquarium lighting information available on the Web, which with Googles latest updates, good information is nearly impossible to find.

Fish Treatments, How They Work, Which to Use and Not to Use

Aquarium Filtration
An article based on decades of experience as to how to best choose your aquarium filters

Fish Nutrition Facts
Complete information from fish food building blocks to sources and much more

AAP Custom Super Premium by Fish Food Guru Clay Neighbors
There is simply NO better prepared fish food; NOT Repashy, New Life Spectrum, or NorthFin, etc.
Best energy levels, best fiber content, best protein optimization, no added supplements.

Atison's Spa Clear; Indian Almond Leaf Conditioner
Clear Betta Spa contains wild almond leaf extract to simulate the natural environment of the native soft water fish.
Other natural botanicals, including Yucca extract, help control ammonia, reduce stress and maintain cleaner water.

Spirulina 20 Fish Food Flake
The best balanced fish flake food diet for Tetras and other fish for disease prevention

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Labels: angel disease, angel virus, Angelfish, angelfish aids, angelfish disease, angelfish virus, low ph aquarium, sick, treatment

By Carl Strohmeyer-PAMR 40+ years experience
Updated 1/22/19

Ichthyophonus (Ichthyphonus) are protists placed between fungi and animals in Biological classification. They are considered members of the kingdom Protozoa in the recent Biological classifications, but are still discussed with fungi in some scientific texts.

Ichthyophonusis one of the more devastating aquarium diseases. It is nearly impossible to treat, however it is easier to prevent.
This progressive disease of generally aged fish may be more common than many aquarists realize as identification is often very difficult with the proper scientific instruments and a Necropsy of infected tissue such as the heart or brain.

The picture to the left displays two combined slides of Ichthyophonus; The left slide is of infected heart tissue while the right slide is of the mouth area of a different specimen (at 200 time magnification)







A few possible outer symptoms include:
Please note that with Ichthyophonus protists, a fish can have just one of these symptoms, not all symptoms are required as Ichthyophonus can metastasize in many areas of fish anatomy, often the heart or other internal tissues, but sometimes less lethal external nodules may be caused by Ichthyophonus protists.

• Ulcerated small nodules in the skin


• Bulging eyes (from pressure exerted from the infection in the brain)


• Loss of color (similar to Neon Tetra Disease)


• Loss of energy (due to the infection in the heart), as well as ability to swim normally


• Whirling; this is a common symptom that unfortunately usually is one of the final symptoms due to infection in the brain (although this symptom can appear early and be the first symptom).
  However this is also a symptom of the disease called "Whirling Disease" caused by the myxozoan parasite Myxobolus cerebralis.
  Further Reading/Reference: Whirling Disease (Myxobolus cerebralis) in Fish


• Often Fish suffering from a systemic aquarium infection of Ichthyophonus will die off at irregular intervals, which often makes disease identification difficult.


• Since this is a progressive disease that generally affects aged fish, any symptoms that may lead one to believe a diagnosis of Ichthyophonus in young aquarium fish would likely be incorrect.


• Sudden cooling of the water can be allow this disease to go systemic as Ichthyphonus protists/fungi are generally more virulent in colder waters, so this can also be a "symptom" since actual tests are impossible to conduct in live fish (see lower in the article).

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The picture to the left is of a Salmon Heart, cut open to show the Ichthyophonus nodules. These same nodules can also be present in less fatal external infections (such as on finnage).

Please click the picture for a better view.






Ichthyophonus generally affects fish as an internal fungus, often attacking vital organs such as the liver, kidneys, brain and also the muscles on occasionally. The result is often a deteriorating fish that often stops eating (making medicated foods useless), swimming in circles (loss of equilibrium caused by the infection invading the brain), and loss of color and scales.

The picture to the right shows Ichthyophonus lesions in salmon muscle.

Modes of Transmission to Other Fish (in order of most likely mode of transmission)

1. Oral route: Ingestion of infected raw fishes transmits Ichthyophonus. This is probably the most common way from my experience. Fish fed feeder fish I have noted have had a much higher incidence of Ichthyophonus.


2. Skin abrasions and/or damaged gills help in transmission of the Ichthyophonus protists.


3. Carriers help in spreading of Ichthyophonus protists through fecal discharges.


4. The disease can transmitted by contact between diseased fish & healthy one (not well understood).

Potential treatments are:

Methylene Blue Baths or better, Potassium Permanganate Baths, increased salt levels (for fish that will tolerate this) of from 1 -2 tablespoons per 5 net gallons.

If the infection is external (such as nodules), a "Swab" with Potassium Permanganate or even Tincture of Iodine may work well, (so not use either of these treatments in the gills!!).
Generally external nodes/nodules type Ichthyophonus infections are the most treatable.

Reference: Fish Baths, Swabs

Where to purchase:
*Potassium Permanganate; Jungle Clear Water
*Kordon Methylene Blue

Some Organic Treatments such as Pimafix, Kanamycin combined with good electrolyte and calcium levels measured by a GH over 100 ppm can help as a cocktail.
A Medicated Wonder Shell would aid this cocktail by adding more anti fungal/protozoal treatment along with adding important electrolytes and calcium.
Other measures for possible treatment (or more to check the spread) are heat as Ichthyphonus protists are generally more virulent in colder waters, so raising temperatures above 82 F (28 Celsius) can at least aid in checking the spread.

Reference: Organic Fish Treatments

One very potent treatment “cocktail” (combination) is the combination of ParaGuard with AAP Spectrogram or the less synergistic combinations of Kanaplex and Nitrofuarzone (Furan 2).
Please note that this combination is a potent treatment and water parameters should be monitored carefully during this treatment (usually about 7-10 days). This should be used in addition to the before mentioned baths (with Methylene Blue or Potassium Permanganate) and water parameter corrections (if necessary).

Where to purchase:
*SeaChem ParaGuard, Malachite Green, aldehydes
*AAP Spectrogram
*Furan Two, Nitrofurazone
*SeaChem Kanaplex (Kanamycin)
*Medicated Wonder Shells

However all the above is often in vain, with the one bright spot that these procedures along with UV Sterilization will often check the spread of this disease.
Other important preventatives is to remove suspected fish to a quarantine tank, in fact I strongly recommend this (or simply euthanizing them) as this is commonly spread through the eating of infected fish’ waste by otherwise healthy fish.

Important Reference:
*Aquarium UV Sterilization; Facts & Information

Prevention of Ichthyophonus is definitely the best cure.

Here are a few preventative steps:

• Quarantine or at least give 30 minute medicated baths in Methylene Blue or Potassium Permanganate.


• Keep optimum water parameters for the fish you are keeping whether FW or saltwater. For freshwater this includes ammonia/nitrites at 0, nitrates below 50 ppm, a stable pH, and positive ion mineralization for the fish kept (a GH of at least 100 ppm, often higher for many fish).
  
  Reference: Aquarium Chemistry; Depletion of Positive Ions


• Regular cleaning procedures


• UV Sterilization via the use of a QUALITY UV Sterilizer (NOT a Green Killing Machine, Submariner, AquaTop, or similar cheap UV Sterilizer that can only perform clarification NOT level one Sterilization)
  
  Reference: Important Basic UV Sterilization Factors
  Where to purchase: Basic, Good, Best Aquarium UV Sterilizers


• Treatment with Malachite Green/Acriflavin/methylene blue based products such as Medicated Wonder Shells or Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Fungus Treatment after suspected Ichthyophonus carrying fish die or are removed.
  
  Where to purchase:
  *API Fungus Cure; Acriflavin


• Increase salt in aquarium, at least temporarily to the highest levels the fish will tolerate.
  See this article for more about salt use:
  Salt Use in Freshwater Aquariums


• Change your source for new fish, this is not to say that your trusted aquarium/fish store is always a poor source for new fish, however this needs to be ruled out since this disease is generally introduced and often I have had clients with unknown die offs that fit the description of Ichthyophonus, keep having problems with this disease after bleaching the aquarium and re-starting, only to buy new fish from the same source to repeat the problem; often when the source of new fish was changed after a bleaching/sterilization of the aquarium did the disease problems end.

Please read this article for more about aquarium disease prevention:
“Aquarium Disease Prevention”

Please read this article for more about studies of Ichthyophonus in Salmon: “Ichthyophonus Disease”

Other References:

*www.aun.edu.eg/developmentvet/fish%20diseases/4_2.htm

Other Recommended Reference & Product Sites

Freshwater Aquarium Care; Basics to Advanced

Fish Diseases | How to Treat Sick Fish

Premium UVC Replacement Lamps
For TRUE Premium, Hot Cathode, Low Pressure UVC Germicidal Bulbs, not the low output bulbs/lamps commonly sold at Amazon & eBay

Premium USDA Aquarium Safe Silicones




*Columnaris & Fungus Infections in Fish

*How Aquarium Medications Work; Part 1

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Highest in PUR, The ONLY LED with an IP67 rating or higher for water proofing along with a full 5 year warranty to back them up! Why purchase brands without this rating such as the Finnex, Current, or Fluval only to be essentially placing an electronic light emitting device over your humid aquarium with little or no guarantee? In the long term, you WILL PAY MORE!

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Labels: aquarium, freshwater, fungus, Ichthyophonus, marine, metastasize, Necropsy, nodules, protists, symptoms, treatment, UV Sterilization