aquarium and pond answers, information, articles, resources

AQUARIUM & POND ANSWERS;
Freshwater, Marine, Sick Fish, Lighting, Baths

Our Facebook Page to Follow: Aquarium/Pond Answers Facebook     DONATE

This is a unique resource for answers, help, & advice to aquarium and pond questions not found elsewhere; With regular posts & article updates.

In our research; we use aquaculture, horticulture, medical, & university research to compile many of our articles.



  See our AQUARIUM ANSWERS DIRECTORY page for topics by category.  


Our Recommended Lighting for highest efficiency professional planted/reef aquariums: "AquaRay Lighting"

Head Pressure in Aquarium and Pond Water Pumps/Filters

 

Sections Include:


By Carl Strohmeyer-PAMR 40+ years experience
Updated 11/1/21

Pump Head Pressure

Overview

An aspect of any water pump (not air pump), including the water pump aspect of an aquarium canister filter, a significant factor in choosing the correct pump is head pressure.

I will attempt to describe in basic and more advanced terms the important aspect of "mating" a correct water pump to your aquarium or pond application, including the addition of placing a UV Sterilizer in the line up.

The most simple definition of head pressure is that this is the force (or resistance) placed on the "head" (OUTLET) of the pump by gravity. The weight of the water column past the point of the pump outlet and devices in-line past this point constrict or impede flow. A UV Sterilizer, pond "spitter", fountain, waterfall feature, or Fluidized Filter all can affect head pressure.
Do not confuse this with the INPUT side of a pump, any resistance or variances in flow placed on the input side of a pump can damage a pump, especially the popular Mag-drive pumps used today by most aquarium & pond owners (in applications of possible input resistance, a direct drive pump should ONLY be used)

In other words the ability to LIFT water while maintaining current (think torque in a truck that allows the "lifting" or pulling of a load up a hill). This is not simply moving water on a level plain as flow, directly out of the water pump with no pressure placed on the pumps flow.

Another way to think of this is to take a 5 gallon bucket full of water. To simply tip and pour water out of the bucket takes very little energy or "lift" (as an example of head pressure). However, if you were to climb a ladder and pour this same bucket, it would take more energy or lift to do so (again as an example of head pressure).

The majority of aquarium and pond water pumps list their maximum head pressure, so this can be used to determine the end water flow (after head pressure is applied). This may be essential for not only determining the correct pump to purchase, but the correct UV Sterilizer (if desired) to be purchased since flow rate is a MAJOR FACTOR in UVC Sterilization effectiveness.

The listed "GPH or "LPH" is almost always the flow rate directly out of the pump (head) WITHOUT ANY pressure from tubing, devices, filter media, or even water or gravity applied.
An example/analogy would be a car/truck engine: the rated horsepower is what the engine produces at the crank shaft, not the wheels after transmission, vehicle weight, etc is applied. So as a rough analogy; a 200 hp engine is going to work much better in a 2000 lb vehicle than a 10,000 vehicle. This analogy applies to a pumps rated flow rate before head pressure is applied.

"Real World" Canister Filter Flow Rates:

Aquarium Filter Siphon DynamicsWhat adds to the confusion canister filter flow rates is the subject of open system versus closed system,
A pump in a sump is an open system, where as a motor/pump as part of a canister filter is a closed system by virtue of the aid of a siphon. This Siphon aid also applies if we were to use a water pump placed in the aquarium to power the canister filter, which I have often done when the motor has failed (this is less expensive than a new filter and often makes for an easier starting filter).
This siphon aid results in much lower affects of distance upon water flow rate between a canister filter and a pump in an open sump.

What is noteworthy is that despite this siphon aid, tests and 1000s of practical use applications show that there is still a drop in flow rate for a closed system canister filter due to friction, tubing size, devices such as UV Sterilizers, CO2 equipment, etc. along with some impact from head pressure.

This sometimes confusing aspect also applies when one product is more factual in publishing flow rates with what a canister filter's closed system pump will deliver in a "real world" application than another.

An example here would be a Sunsun 303B Aquarium Canister Filter which like most related filters provides only the gph (370 gph) immediately at the "head" of the pump, while the Rena Filstar XPL provides both the immediate flow rate out of the pump head (350 gph) and the ACTUAL flow rate (187 gph) out of the filter itself after hoses, filter media, etc are applied.
Based on questions, many will think the SunSun and related filter is substantially stronger, when in reality these filter are nearly equal once head pressure is applied.

Recommended Product Sources:
*Sunsun 303B Aquarium Canister Filter
*Rena Filstar XPL Premium Canister Filter

The implications here are important for mating an effective UV Sterilizer to the correct filter (if a canister filter is to be used to drive water through the UV Sterilizer). As noted previously, few canister filters rate their "true" flow rate. Another example is the Fluval FX5 with a 0 head pressure rating 925 gph, when in reality the typical head pressure flow rate is 600 gph or less after the added resistance in the filter media and tubing are applied (as well as the addition of a UV Sterilizer).

Though it's far from an exact formula, a typical pump/canister filter flow rate with an under tank placement is about 50% to 60% of the published 0 head flow rate.
This is the number you should use for mating your UV Sterilizer.


It's noteworthy that you can increase or decrease the head pressure by the placement of the pump/canister filter and other equipment run off the filter. Keeping the tubing length to a minimum can help decrease friction & head pressure as well as to not use under sized inside dimension tubing.
Impeller, intake, internal flow, and exhaust design will also play a role, as I have seen one canister filter brand barely affected by placement, whereas another is much more affected by filter placement.

Here is an actual test using the Filstar S and timing its flow to fill a container.


These results were with a filter with NO resistance in the filter (all media was removed). The tubing was not cut, shortened or lengthened (as tubing length can also change results by adding more water resistance).

For example you can have an aquarium where the stand or table it is placed on allows for the filter and other equipment to be placed alongside at the same level as the base of the aquarium. This would provide for considerably more head pressure than an installation that has the canister filter and other equipment under the stand/cabinet at say 24 inches.

Another important plumbing note is that it is important that your inflow not be impeded (which is why a pre-filter is important, especially with pond pumps), if any flow restriction is needed to control flow, this should be on the exhaust/outlet side of any pump/filter system.
Usually valves on the output/outlet side only adds more head pressure, while restricting flow on the inlet side will strain a pump/filter (this is based on decades of practical/hands on experience as well as advice from my many mentors over the years).
* An example would be a pump with the ability to pump to 10 feet; there is no difference between running this pump at zero head pressure while restricting the flow rate to that of 5 feet of head pressure versus simply running the pump uphill 5 feet to an aquarium or pond water feature!

This is why most properly designed pumps or filter often have a larger diameter intake than they do exhaust. This allows for less strain on the impeller and better head pressure.


Water Pump Designs;

Most aquarium water pumps are open impeller designs that are greatly affected by head pressure. Propeller pumps, just by their design can handle almost no head pressure and thus are only intended for under water applications with no lifting of water out or into an aquarium.

A few pumps, in particular those designed for ponds or large aquarium systems such as the Rio HF Pump series have closed designs that can handle much more head pressure and are thus better suited for lifting water through multiple devices, water features, or deep sumps.

The bottom line is, regardless of the pump design you choose, know its maximum head pressure so it can be calculated what the actual flow will be with the devices you might add in-line.
For instance, do NOT expect a 1000 gph pump with a maximum head pressure of 10 feet to pump any more than 700 gallons per hours lifting water 3 feet from a pond to a waterfall (other factors including water in-line likely will reduce this even more). It is likly that it will be closer to 600-500 gallons an hour. This also applies to aquarium applications too!

Simple Calculation Methods:

This section will provide simple and reasonably (but not 100% accurate) methods to calculate head pressure on a pump or filter.

  1. Vertical:
    This one is the most obvious; Add 1 foot of head pressure for every 1 foot of vertical tubing past the pump or filter to the discharge point in the aquarium or pond. If the pump is submersible, do not count the position in the aquarium or pond, just where the tubing leaves the top level of the water.
    Do not count tubing coming from an aquarium to a canister filter as this is gravity assisted and does not add to this calculation.
    This major factor of head pressure is a "one way" factor, meaning that if your pump/filter is pumping water to a UV Sterilizer 24 inches under the aquarium water level, you do NOT count the distance down, then back up as "down" is a given based on gravity/siphon. The head pressure is added on the trip back up to the tank/aquarium.

    Looking at Vertical Head Pressure another way we can use this accurate formula:
    1 vertical foot = 0.433 pounds per square inch (psi)
    or conversely
    1 psi = 2.31 vertical feet
    Look at it this way; if you have a sump, and are pumping the water up, you have atmospheric pressure at the intake and you have atmospheric pressure plus the weight of the water column on the output of the pump. So before even moving anything the pump has to overcome the weight of that column, and that's where all those feet and 2.3ft/psi or 0.433 psi come from.

    As an example; A pump with a rated Head Pressure of 7 feet, would have 3.03 psi (7 divided by 2.31)

    Another more simplified, albeit not 100% accurate way to figure vertical head pressure loss is to find the rated maximum head pressure of a pump or filter (if published), then deduct the amount of head pressure in feet, inches, centimeters, etc.
    As an example; if the maximum head pressure is 6 feet, and you are placing a pump or filter 2 feet below the aquarium or running 2 feet of water line up to a fountain or pond water feature, you can roughly deduct 1/3 off the flow. If 3 feet of water line is used for this same pump/filter, you can roughly deduct 1/2 (50%) of the flow.

  2. Horizontal:
    There are not 100% accurate formulas that I have found for measuring horizontal head pressure, other than the very complicated Bernoulli's Equation.
    Reference: Bernoulli's Equation

    However both in my observations and other reading it is safe to say that horizontal head pressure equals a vertical run of .25 to .5 times its length (in an open system).

  3. Head Pressure Deductions for tubing/piping; Add approximately 1 foot of head pressure for every 90 degree turn in tubing/pipe under 3/4" ID (inside dimensions). Add approximately 1/2 foot of head pressure for larger dimensions for 90 degree turns

  4. Pipe/Tubing Size; Although I do not have firm calculations for tubing/pipe sizes, I can state that smaller diameter tubing or pipes add to head pressure, but this can have variables within itself in calculations including pump outlet size and pump impeller design.

    The pump outlet size is a major determining factor that you can calculate; for instance if you have a pump with an outlet designed for 1 inch tubing and you use a reducing part (often supplied with many pumps) for say 1/2 inch, you are literally going to reduce your total head pressure by half.
    However if your pump is designed for only 1/2 ID tubing, using this size tubing/pipe is not going to subtract from calculation.
    I also should point out that not all pumps are designed with the best outlet sizes for their design (which includes head pressure, impeller design, and more), so these calculations can be off if for instance a pump is designed with a 1 inch outlet when in reality its design is better suited for 3/4 inch outlets.

    As a side note, in tests I have conducted with several pumps and 1/2 ID tubing with one foot of head added I have not been able to achieve flow rates beyond 350 gph regardless of open impeller pump sizes, wattages, stated flow rates, etc.

    Many aquarium systems are designed to operate with larger diameter tubing/piping on the inlet size and smaller on the outlet.
    This reduced friction and allows for better flow rate and less strain on the pump/motor.
    This also applies with both closed and open systems which is why pumps such as the Rio HF pumps have a larger diameter inlet than outlet

    Further Reference:
    Will a Larger Pipe Size Help or Hurt?

    The bottom line is this is an aspect I have often seen where clients/customers I have serviced over the years have over looked.
    An example was a person who had a 3800 gph pond pump connected to 1 inch tubing, even though the pump was designed for 1.5 tubing/pipe. This reduced the flow immediately by 1/3!!

  5. Device Head Pressure; This next calculation is not one where I can state it is exact, but it still should not be over looked and that is devices added inline to your pump. This can vary from device to device.

    Generally speaking a Level 1 UV Sterilizer will add 1-2 feet to head pressure, but this can vary considerably by UV size and design.
    As an example a small well designed 8 watt UV would add as little as a foot to head pressure, however some, such as the Coralife 9 Watt Turbo Twist can double this for a similar size UV.
    A large UV such as the TMC 110 Watt PRO Pond /Aquarium UV will add as much as 4 feet of head pressure (although less if 2" ID inch pipe is used).

    Product Resource:
    *Level 1 UV Sterilizers
    *TMC 8 Watt Vecton Premium UV Sterilizer
    *TMC 110 Watt PRO Pond /Aquarium UV Sterilizer

    Devices such a Fluidized Filters can add anywhere from 2 to 4 feet of head pressure (more or less).
    Again design is a factor as well as the sand size (smaller requires less head pressure), but again as a generalization consider a minimum 1 foot for every 6 inches of sand fluidized plus the added elbows in the device add to head pressure as noted earlier in section #2.
    Product Resource: TMC Premium 3rd Generation Aquarium Fluidized Sand Bed Filter

  6. Know the maximum head pressure of your pump/filter.
    If this cannot be found, find a similar pump with the same input wattage and one can generally extrapolate what the maximum head pressure will be.

    Then use this number for calculations of flow rate. Using an example is the best way I can explain this:
    If, for example your pump/filter has a maximum head pressure of 8 feet and your device (such as a UV Sterilizer) is one foot below the aquarium or pond, you have one 90 degree bend in 3/4" ID tubing/PVC (this would add 1/2 foot head), and then the device itself would add a minimum of one foot head, this equals 2.5 feet of head pressure. Then divide 2.5 feet by 8 feet and gives you .31 or 31%.
    So if the rated flow rate of said pump or filter is 500 gph without any head pressure (rated flow), then multiply by .31 or take off 31%, this equals 156 gph. Then deduct 156 from 500 and your actual flow should be 344 gph.

  7. If all else fails in calculations or you have already purchased a pump and simply desire to know the end flow rate, this can be simply calculated quite exactly;

    Simply place a container under the outlet of your pump as it empties into the aquarium or pond after passing through all devices and water feature. Then time how long it takes to fill the container in exact measurements.
    As an example if a 1 gallon container fills in 10 seconds, that is 6 gallons per minute or 360 gph (this works for metric using liters too).

    Admittedly this can be rather difficult for very large flow rate pond pumps that pump say 10 times the previous examples flow rate (3600 gph versus 360 gph), as this would fill 1 gallon in a second. This would required a 5 gallon bucket that might be difficult to position 100% in the water flow discharge; the end result would be 5 gallons in 5 seconds to produce 3600 gph.

    Calculating Aquarium Flow Turn Over
    Video; Calculating Aquarium Flow Turn Over


ADVERTISEMENT


Effect of Impeller design on Pump Head Pressure

The design a of a water pumps impeller has a major impact on whether it will produce higher flow rates through a higher flow rate curve.

Here are three common designs and their affect on water head pressure (Please Click on the pictures to enlarge);

Propeller water pump impeller design, Head Pressure in Aquarium and Pond Water Pumps The "Propeller" pump impeller design has almost no head pressure and is not intended for any real lifting of water.
However it also is very efficient at moving reasonably high volumes of water with a very smooth rotating current and requires very low electrical wattages to do so.

These are popular in pumps such as the Premium Seio Propeller pumps for under water circulation devices, especially in reef tanks.
Another advantage of this impeller design is that it also has very low start up resistance making it the best design for wave makers that automatically turn pumps on and off to simulate waves.
Product Source: Seio 320, 530 Propeller Water Pumps for Reef Tanks, wave makers

Standard water pump impeller design, Head Pressure in Aquarium and Pond Water Pumps The standard open impeller is the most common design for aquarium and light duty pond water pumps.
While not as good for wave makers, these tend to be the most versatile design which use reasonably low electrical wattage.
Even with these impellers there is a very wide variance in design quality with some having lighter magnets, thin blades or even slight hybrid propeller designs (the Fluval Pumps have impeller designs that are not well suited for adding much head pressure). As pure water pumps/ power heads go, the newer upgraded Rio Plus Pumps are the superior design in this class from what I have used and seen.

Product Resources:
*Rio Aquarium, Fountain Water Pumps
*Aquarium, Fountain, Pond Pumps; Light to Heavy Duty

Closed water pump impeller design, Head Pressure in Aquarium and Pond Water Pumps The "closed impeller" design is generally the most heavy duty water pump impeller.
This design can handle many more in line devices and its head pressure falls off much more slowly towards its maximum head pressure (where it obviously falls off to 0). In fact this is an aspect of pumps that utilize these closed impellers that is difficult to measure in the previous sections calculations (which I made many generalizations).

This design is best for deep sumps, multiple water features/devices, multiple aquarium systems, and simply larger ponds or aquariums.
A good example of a well made closed impeller pump is the Rio HF Pump
Product Resource: Rio HF Pump; Medium to Heavy Duty Water Pumps

Affect of Electromagnet design on Pump Head Pressure

This is rather straight forward, but still occasionally missed by aquarium or especially pond keepers, and that is the design of the electromagnet of most typical "Mag-Drive" pumps used for aquariums and ponds.

One way to think of this in terms of car/truck engines is horse power versus torque.
Many simple pumps (or in the case of high flow pond pumps; "cheap") have the horse power to move a lot of water, but almost no torque to lift water if there are any devices in-line or debris in the water.

The electromagnet that drives a propeller pump is generally very "simple", meaning it does not need to be a very heavy winding that uses much current, thus this design is generally quite efficient as for electrical usage. As an example a Seio 530 Pump uses only 7.5 watts yet moves 530 gph.
This is an excellent pump for what it is designed for, but it has absolutely no torque and therefore should be used for nothing more than underwater current, not running a UV Sterilizer or similar.
Product Resource: Seio 530 Pump

With most standard impeller design and especially closed (or partially closed) impeller design pumps the electromagnet is much heavier and will require more electrical current (wattage). This will obviously increase depending upon the load and flow it is designed for.
Unfortunately not all pumps marketed for applications such as ponds in particular have the heavy duty electromagnet to provide the torque to provide the "lift" necessary for head pressure.
So even if the flow is good or even the impeller design is excellent, often the electromagnet is not, so the end result is often poor head pressure or worse; a shorter life span due to an electromagnet burn out from attempting to run a large pump and impeller design (often in harsh pond conditions) with an inadequate electromagnet design.
A good example is the Via Aqua 4900 pump (although I like many Via Aqua pumps as good, albeit more economy pumps, this is one to be avoided).
Another is the entire Laguna Max-Flo pump line.

Often, but not always, a dead give away is a pump of what may seem "too low of wattage" for a high flow pump. This may be fine a for a propeller pump, but not a pump used in sumps or ponds to lift water, especially with more debris in the water column or devices in-line.

Head Pressure Improvement Suggestions

This most basic suggestion is to adjust the level of lift if head pressure (slow water flow) is a problem.

As an example, say you are using an Internal Filter or Power Head Pump to run a UV Sterilizer (often utilizing intake and return adapters) such as the Vecton 8 Watt UV; I would recommend hanging the UV Sterilizer just below the rim of the aquarium with minimal tubing between the UV Sterilizer and the intake and return connections.
Such a short drop will reduce head pressure considerably versus placing the UV Sterilizer at the base of the aquarium or even lower such as at the base of an aquarium cabinet (which may be too much head pressure for many small Internal Filters and Power Head Pumps).

Product Resources:
*Via Aqua or SunSun Internal Aquarium Power Filters
*Power Head Pump; Efficient JP-023

The above suggestions work for many similar applications, and that is moving any device closer to the aquarium (or pond) thus reducing vertical lift.
Horizontal lift is also and issue, but not nearly as much so as vertical lift; that said reducing any unnecessary horizontal tubing/piping can improve head pressure as well.

Removing/Reducing turns and twist in the piping/tubing can help improve head pressure too.
Having direct flow, even with canister filters using bulkheads can also lower head pressure from my experience

This video provides information as to bulkhead use based on professional experience:
Aquarium bulkhead help
Aquarium Bulkhead Tips and Tricks

If the problem is a waterfall on pond, this may obviously be more difficult to adjust (other than simply changing pumps to one with higher head pressure), but if this can be done or if changes in piping routing can be accomplished, this can help improve flow rates.

References, Additional Reading:

*Pipe Pressure Loss Calculator
This is excellent reading for those with a more technical engineering aptitude.

````````````````````````

For other articles to help readers make well informed decisions about their aquariums or ponds, please consider reading these:

*Aquarium Lighting; The most in depth & researched aquarium lighting article anywhere on the internet.

*UV Sterilization; Sterilizer Information
As with the Aquarium Lighting, this UV Sterilization article is a must read for aquarium or pond keepers.

*Pond Care Information;
Basic but complete information about pond care with links/resources to more in depth pond care help/information.


Other Recommended Reference & Product Sites

Aquarium Sponge Filter Use Information
Sponge Filtration; Complete Aqurium Sponge Filter Use Information

Aquairum Sponge Filter
Premium Aquarium Sponge Filters; from AAP/ATI

Aquarium & Pond Plumbing Parts
Aquarium & Pond Plumbing Parts

Difficult to find or unique parts found nowhere else!
Including: T Water Diverters, Hose Barb Adapters, Couplings, & Reducers, Ball Valves, Swing Check Valves, Return Adapters, Intake Adapters


Economy Submersible Aquarium, Fountain Pumps
Economy Submersible Aquarium, Fountain Pumps; SunSun JP-033

A better, UPDATED version of the Via Aqua 302 with SUPERIOR Performance, unlike other pumps sold elsewhere as a replacement





SunSun HJ-1542 Aquarium Pump
AAP/SunSun HJ-1542 Aquarium Pump; replaces Via Aqua 1300

This pump replaces the Via Aqua 1300 and other copies such as by AquaTop as the Premier Power Head Pump for Aquariums, Ponds, Fountains, Wet/Dry Filters. This pump is submersible with Mag drive & ceramic shaft




JTP-12000 High Efficiency Pond Pump
JTP-12000 High Output/Efficiency Pond Pump, 3170 GPH (12000 LPH)

Unique VERY efficient design; uses variable frequency technology for low power consumption yet large flow rate & high head pressure!
Uses only 100 watts for 3170 gph output




Hanna Instruments Aquarium Testers & Meters For Freshwater and Saltwater

Hanna Instruments Aquarium Testers & Meters; For Freshwater and Saltwater

Hanna instruments is a global manufacturer of analytical instrumentation. Hanna offers multi-parameter bench top portable meters and testers..



AAP Premium FSB Filters
AAP Premium FSB Filters


Premium, second to NONE Aquarium Bio Filters, that with optional Oolitic Sand can also maintain essential aquarium calcium levels, alkalinity, & electrolytes that are important to ALL Marine life, Goldfish, African Cichlids, Livebearers & more


*Aquarium Silicone Sealant; USDA 100% Fish Safe
100% Fish Safe, USDA & Agricultre Canada approved.
The same CANNOT be said for Hardware Store brands!!


For a friendly, Knowledgeable, aquarium forum with in a family atmosphere:
Aquarium Forum; Everything Aquatic



ADVERTISEMENT




Labels: , , , , , , , ,


Activated Carbon for Aquarium or Pond Use; Information, Use Table

Use of Activated Carbon in Freshwater, Marine Aquariums and Ponds

Index:

By Carl Strohmeyer-PAMR 40+ years experience
Updated 1/23/20

Aquarium and pond activated carbon Carbon is primarily an adsorbent which is a very popular chemical filter media that is often misunderstood as to use in established aquariums and ponds as well.
A healthy established aquarium (fresh or salt) with regular water changes generally needs little carbon (although more carbon is generally needed in marine reef aquariums and less in low pH freshwater aquariums).

Carbon will NOT remove or absorb ammonia, nitrites, or nitrates. Carbon is very useful in removing medications after treatment or even between doses.


Please read the entire article for a good understanding of what activated carbon can or cannot do for your aquarium/pond; including the table of what carbon can and cannot remove as well as the referenced resources

How Activated Carbon Works

Activated carbon has an extremely large surface area per unit weight, which makes AC an extremely efficient absorptive AND adsorptive material.
The activation of carbon and its manufacture create many pores within the particles, and it is the vast areas of the walls within these pores that account for most of the total surface area of the carbon.
In water, activated carbon has a preference for large organic molecules and for substances which are non-polar in nature.

The forces of attraction between the carbon and the absorbed molecules are greater the closer the molecules are in size to the pores. The best absorption takes place when the pores are just large enough to admit the molecules.
Activated carbon, when contacted with water containing organic material, will remove these compounds selectively by a combination of adsorption of the less polar molecules, absorption (filtration) of the larger particles, and partial deposition of colloidal material on the exterior surface of the activated carbon.

As well as absorption, activated carbon uses a process called Adsorption, in fact adsorption is the primary method of molecule removal by carbon, not absorption.
When a material adsorbs something, it means it attaches it by chemical attraction.

The extent of removal of soluble organics by absorption depends on the diffusion of the particle to the external surface of the carbon and diffusion within the porous adsorbent. For colloidal particles, internal diffusion is relatively unimportant because of particle size.
Organic substances that pass through the column consist of hydrophilic organic molecules (substances that are attracted to, and dissolve well within, water) and hydrophobic molecules (repulsed by water).
If the molecule is “polar” (having both a hydrophobic and hydrophilic attributes) which many organic molecules are, the hydrophobic side will be attracted (attached) to the activated carbon.

Adsorption is partially the result of forces of attraction at the surface of a particle that cause soluble organic materials to adhere to the activated carbon. The limited water solubility of many organic substances will affect AC adsorption of these molecules.

Put more simply (I hope): Polar, hydrophobic and hydrophilic interactions are important interactions necessary to understand how activated carbon adsorb the certain molecules.
A Methylene Blue dye molecule is hydrophobic and has a large affinity to the hydrophobic carbon rings of the activated carbon.
The dye prefers to interact with the carbon rather than water.
Where as non chelated metals (such as copper ions) are positively charged (hydrophilic), and the carbon is neutral and hydrophobic. Therefore, the positively charged metal ions prefer to interact with the water, which is hydrophilic. “Like dissolves Like”.

This applies to most metals from the periodic table, including calcium, magnesium, etc., and for this reason most essential minerals are not removed by activated carbon unless chelated but they can loose their positive charge due to oxidative processes of the Redox Potential, which is another reason to replenish these ESSENTIAL positive mineral ions, especially if carbon is used.

This positive/negative ionization is why DOC (organics) will also negatively affect the Aquarium/Pond Redox Balance

Please see this article for further information:
The Aquarium Redox Potential



ADVERTISEMENT



Common Uses

As already noted healthy aquariums often do not need much activated carbon, however this is a rather ambiguous generalization.
An aquarium keeper needs to consider DOC (dissolved organic compounds/carbon), pH, desired compounds that can or cannot be removed, bio load of the aquarium or pond, and desired environment.
As an example, an Amazon River aquarium will generally need less or no carbon while a heavily fed reef tank will need more.

One reason for little or no carbon in an Amazon River aquarium is these are generally low pH environments that are high oxidizing with little or no Redox Reduction. As noted earlier, positively charged metal ions once they give up their positive charge are easily removed and in a low pH, highly oxidizing aquarium this can be done rapidly. The use of Carbon, especially in larger quantities will only speed this process.

I have made many tests and observations over the years in freshwater and marine aquariums of different environments, as well as ponds as to how much carbon is best to use (if any).
I would use tests of pH/KH and nitrates to help determine need. Although carbon cannot remove nitrates, it can remove most DOC that will eventually end up as nitrates.
So a falling pH/KH and climbing Nitrate level would generally be an indicator more activated carbon or some carbon is needed.

Redox tests if available can sometimes be helpful since activated carbon can act as a Redox Mediator.
See this article for further reference:
Redox as it Pertains to Aquariums; Including Methylene Blue Test

Product Source: Methylene Blue

Simply gauging activated carbon use by tank water color, if the tank is yellowing this can be an indicator of the need for more carbon. However this is not a 100% accurate indicator, nor can activated carbon remove all the causes of yellow water.
The use of carbon if only for a day or even hours after or between medication treatments is another important aspect of carbon use.

In Reef aquariums, the use of carbon (even though less effective in higher pH water) is important in my experience/opinion as part of a regimen that where carbon is but one piece of the aquarium maintenance puzzle that often includes Protein Skimmers (which also remove many similar DOC, but not as quickly after production), water changes, micron filtration, de-nitrification with deep sand beds or products such as Matrix, and use of chemical absorbents such as Purigen.

Product Sources:
*TMC V2 Premium Marine Aquarium Protein Skimmer
*SeaChem Matrix
*SeaChem Purigen premium synthetic absorbent

zeolite ammonia remover, carbon
Carbon can also be used in mixed products such as Ammo Carb, but zeolites are only for freshwater use.
The use of zeolite/carbon mixes is especially useful in areas where municipal tap water contains chloramines (instead of the usual chlorine).
I have also achieved good results with carbon/zeolite blends in ponds which are generally exposed to even more contaminants than aquarium.
Further Information: Municipal Tap Water, Chloramines

Product Source: Ammo-Carb from AAP



A good starting point for activated carbon use (please note that this is a generalization), is one to three teaspoons per ten gallons of water.
One teaspoon of activated carbon is equal to approximately 6 grams in weight measurement. This amount will vary greatly depending upon many other factors that the aquarium or pond keeper can determine.
As well sometimes an aquarium keeper may choose to only use this amount of carbon as part of a clean up procedure (in particular freshwater aquariums) and then discontinue use after a day or two.

Lignite Activated Carbons

Premium activated carbonThe best Premium Activated Carbon is produced from a soft, brownish-black coal (Lignite) in which the alteration of vegetable matter which has proceeded further than in peat but not as far as in bituminous coal.
Lignite based carbon is the best choice for use in aquarium & ponds to remove organic molecules, pesticides and for color removal, due to its large pore size.
Product Source: High Grade Lignite Pelletized Carbon from AAP

The medium to large pore size is important, because the organics in a aquarium or pond environment will clog and render ineffective, the smaller-pored, coconut shell carbons.
6 grams (.21 ounces) of Lignite Activated Carbon has the surface area of a football field, so a little goes a long way in aquarium use in particular.

The other common coal based carbon are the Bituminous coal activated carbons. These are harder with more varied pore sizes.
The graph below compares some of the coal based carbon properties:

Typical properties of coal based carbons for aquarium or pond use

Here are a few aspects that impact the effectiveness of activated carbon

Chemical Properties;

The carbon surface may actually interact chemically with organic molecules. As well electrical forces between the activated carbon surface and some contaminants may result in adsorption or ion exchange.
Adsorption, then, is also affected by the chemical nature of the adsorbing surface. The chemical properties of the adsorbing surface are determined to a large extent by the activation process.

Activated Carbon formed from different activation processes will have chemical properties that make them more or less attractive to various contaminants.

Contaminant Properties:

Large dissolved organic compounds/carbon (DOC) are most effectively adsorbed by activated carbon. A general rule of thumb is that similar materials tend to associate. DOC molecules and activated carbon are similar materials; therefore there is a stronger tendency for most organic chemicals to associate with the activated carbon in the filter rather than staying dissolved in a dissimilar material like water.
Generally, the least soluble organic molecules (such as large complex amino acids or fatty acids) are most strongly adsorbed. Often the smaller organic molecules (such as sugars) are held the tightest, because they fit into the smaller pores.

It is also noteworthy that although larger complex organic molecules (often nitrogen based) are more readily absorbed, these molecules are also not held as tightly and re-leased under certain conditions which is why carbon should not be relied on for the sole form of organic contaminant removal.
Other methods such as Purigen, de-nitrifying filters, water changes, Protein Skimmers (marine aquariums), micron filters, UV Sterilizers, etc. should be employed as part of the mix.

Concentration of organic contaminants can affect the adsorption process. A given activated carbon may be more effective than another type of activated carbon material at low contaminant concentrations, but may be less effective than the other carbon material at high concentrations.

Water Temperature and pH;

Adsorption usually increases as pH and temperature decrease. Chemical reactions and forms of chemicals are closely related to pH and temperature. When pH and temperature are lowered many organic chemicals are in a more absorbable form (this is noteworthy for marine/saltwater use and why Protein Skimmers are also important as these devices will remove DOC as well, although not immediately as carbon can)

Exposure Time;

The process of adsorption is also influenced by the length of time that the carbon is in contact with the contaminant in the water. Increasing contact time allows greater amounts of contaminant to be removed from the water. Contact is improved by increasing the amount of activated carbon in the filter and reducing the flow rate of water through the filter.

There is controversy in what essential minerals carbon will absorb or what activated carbon will or will not absorb in general. I will state based on my own experience and scientific evidence that carbon has many uses in aquariums/ponds but is also over used or incorrectly recommended. Although I use little carbon in my established healthy aquariums and ponds, I disagree with those that state it should not or rarely be used (based on some false assumptions of what carbon removes or adds to water).
On the flip side I also disagree with those that make carbon the answer for water quality issues such as nitrates for which carbon does not remove.
Activated Carbon is very useful for removing most medications after or between treatments (this is where I strongly recommend its use), although even here, carbon does not remove most copper formulations effectively.

Possible Concerns with Carbon Use

*Activated carbon can foster the growth of bacteria by concentrating other organics (such as DOC) on its surface.
Although I have not performed controlled tests to confirm this, I have made many observations over the years that increased use of carbon has coincided with increased incidence of bacterial infections such as Aeromonas, especially in lower pH Amazon River & SE Asia water aquarium environments since Redox is also generally less favorable and the removal of tannins by carbon from products such as Indian Almond Leaf Extracts allows these bacteria to thrive.
The fact that activated carbon removes oxygen, further increases the risk of an opportunistic Aeromonas Bacterial outbreak since these bacterium are anaerobic.

Further References:
*Aeromonas, Septicemia, Vibrio Infections in Aquarium Fish
*Aquarium Chemistry; Amazon River Water Environments

Product Source: Atison's Spa, Indian Almond Leaf Extracts, lowers Aeromonas

Use in planted freshwater aquariums:

This is an area of some controversy of which some information is based on facts, some information is not, with some reasonable questions in between.

The main controversy I will address for now as to carbon use in planted freshwater aquariums is the removal of trace minerals. I read some experiments at “the Krib”, as well I have made observations and tests (as well as research) over the years myself.
The main testable point is that most metals such as Iron (which is important for plants) are NOT absorbed carbon with an important and noteworthy exception; and that is the use of chelation.
EDTA (which is an organic molecule) is used to chelate many metals such as iron to make it more readily available for fertilizers or other uses, and since activated carbon is especially effective in removing organic carbon based molecules, these chelated metals are then removed.

Any aquatic plant fertilizers that contain chelated metals will be bound to the carbon pores, and as result their concentration into the water column will get lower with the use of activated carbon.
If the carbon is left in the aquarium for a period of time, the chelated compounds in aquariums slowly decay and release their metals.

However not all trace elements are chelated, for instance SeaChem Flourish uses water soluble non-chelated iron, as well mineral blocks such as Wonder Shells are non chelated and any possible absorbed trace minerals are rapidly replaced by the Wonder Shell (which although mineral depletion by activated carbon is low, the use of Wonder Shells in aquariums/ponds utilizing activated carbon insures adequate minerals)

Product Sources:
*SeaChem Flourish Plant Fertilizer
*Wonder Shells; Unique Version ONLY available at AAP

The use of Activated Carbon with Marine Protein Skimmers:

Although conclusive tests are forth coming, there is evidence that the use of activated carbon can limit the amount of foam refraction generated by a marine protein skimmer. This is likely due to the adsorption of Foaming Agents (MBAS) by activated carbon.
This presents a problem for many reef keepers since both carbon and protein skimmers are useful aspects of a complete marine filtration system.
My suggestion is to limit carbon use in cleaning filters run during certain times of the day (or week), especially after heavy feeding.

The re-use of carbon after removal during disease treatment:

Carbon can trap many pathogens, so soaking in saltwater (specific gravity of 1.025) while out of the aquarium can prevent re-infection once added back into the aquarium.
HOWEVER, this is far from 100% sure, especially with viruses, and some bacteria and certain fungi (generally the saltwater soak is very effective to kill parasites).

Soaking in bleach/chlorine or any other Redox oxidizer is not a viable alternative since (as per the table below), carbon is very good at removing these products. What will happen is these will cancel each other out; either the amount of bleach or similar used will exhaust the carbons capability or the carbon will remove all the oxidizer this not allowing any disinfection.

*A final concern with activated carbon is the possible release of contaminants after they have been initially adsorbed. This action is known as desorption or dumping. This could occur if other ambient water quality characteristics change.
Although at the time of writing this article, I have not discovered the exact mechanism for causing this, but I do know that a tank that is not stable in its general chemistry, whether pH or Redox is a candidate for this possible problem of carbon use.

Here is a list of compounds carbon can or cannot absorb.

Please note that some compounds may be desirable to remove depending upon your tank requirements while the same compound may not be desirable in another aquarium environment.
A good example would be tannins (which carbon removes reasonably well); in a soft water environment an aquarist would likely want to restrict the use of Activated Carbon, while someone keeping “dirty” goldfish may find the use of carbon on a regular basis (in higher quantities) a necessity.








WHAT CARBON CAN ABSORB:
Excellent Absorption:Fair/Good AbsorptionWHAT CARBON CANNOT ABSORB (or absorption is poor)
*Amyl Acetate
*Amyl Alcohol
*Benzene
*Bleach
*Butyl Alcohol
*Butyl Acetate
*Calcium Hypochlorite
*ORGANIC carbon
*Chloral
*Chloroform
*Chlorine
*Chlorobenzene
*Chlorophenol
*Cresol
*Defoliants
*Diesel Fuel
*Dissolved Organic Compounds
*Dyes (such as Methylene Blue or Acriflavin)
*Ethyl Acetate
*Ethyl Acrylate
*Foaming Agents (MBAS)
*Gasoline
*Glycols
*Herbicides
*Hydrogen Peroxide
*Hypochlorous Acid
*Insecticides
*Iodine
*Isopropyl Acetate
*Isopropyl Alcohol
*Ketones
*Methyl Bromide
*Methyl Ethyl Ketone
*Naptha
*Nitrobenzene
*Nitroluene
*Odors (general)
*Oil - dissolved
*Organic Esters
*Oxalic Acid
*Oxygen
*PCB's
*Pesticides
*Phenol
*Sodium Hypochlorite
*Toluidine
*Trichlorethylene
*Turpentine
*Xylene


*Acetaldehde
*Acetone
*Alcohols
*Antifreeze
*Chloramine (only the Chlorine, zeolite needed for remaining ammonia)

*Calcium Hypochlorite
*Chlorophyll
*Citric Acid
*EDTA (an organic chelator of metals such as iron)
*Ethyl Alcohol
*Ethyl Amine
*Ethyl Chloride
*Etyl Ether
*Hydrogen Sulfide
*Lactic Acid
*Mercaptans
*Methyl Acetate
*Methyl Alcohol
*Methyl Chloride
*Organic Acids
*Organic Salts
*Ozone
*Potassium Permanganate
*Propioc Acid
*Propyl Acetate
*Propyl Alcohol
*Propyl Chloride
*Radon
*Solvents
*Sulphonated Oils
*Tannins, such as: Indian Almond Leaf Extract (Atison's Spa)

*Tar Emulsion
*Tartaric Acid
*Xanthophyll

*Cyanide
*Copper (this in part depends upon type of copper compound and chelated copper is not readily removed by carbon), also availability of oxygen and a lower pH can improve basic copper sulfate adsorption by carbon.
Basically carbon should not be relied for total copper removal, especially in Marine aquariums using chelated carbon

*Free, low molecular weight hormones.
*Alkalinity

*Calcium

*Carbon Dioxide

*Fluoride,

*Formaldehyde

*Hardness.

*Lime

*Magnesium

*Manganese

*Microbes,

*Molybdenum

*Nitrates, nitrites, ammonia

*Phosphates

*Selenium

*Sodium,

*Lead, Iron and other heavy metals are removed only by adding a chelation process using EDTA, an organic carbon molecule (then these metals can be readily removed)





*Protein bound hormones are generally NOT removed by carbon

SUMMARY;

It is noteworthy that not all carbons are the same, but hopefully the reader will understand what a quality activated carbon can and cannot do.

There are many excellent carbons available on the market, as well as many very poor carbons/charcoals.
My advice is if the carbon you are currently using is not matching the results expected by the above chart, then switch.
As well, do not feel stuck using manufacturer pre-filled carbon bags that are commonly sold for many filters. My experience has been that the majority of these are of poor quality, and both results and cost savings can be achieved by purchasing a separate carbon and refillable bag to use in your filter.

Product Examples:
High Grade Lignite Pelletized Carbon from AAP
Lees Filter Bags

References

*The Krib; Activated Carbon
*Copper & Cyanide Removal by Carbon

Other Recommended Reference & Product Sites


Aquarium Lighting, Information

The largest data base of aquarium lighting information available on the Web, which with Googles latest updates, good information is nearly impossible to find.

Aquarium Medictions
Fish Treatments, How They Work, Which to Use and Not to Use

NilocG Aquatics, Planted Tank Liquid Ferts

NilocG Aquatics; Planted Tank Liquid Ferts from AAP

NilocG Aquatics PROFESSIONAL GRADE planted aquarium liquid fertilizer products. Products designed for persons who want to have a more advanced planted aquarium without the hassles need for a degree in science to do so. Meant for use in "The Estimative Index of Dosing, or No Need for Test Kits" method of planted aquarium aquascaping.




Eheim Everyday Automatic Feeder

Eheim Everyday Automatic Feeder

The EHEIM Everyday Fish Feeder is a compact fish feeder with actively aerated feeding chamber.
This unit includes a clamp for fixing to open top aquariums or terrariums. Easy to understand programming, double dosage of food is programmable




TMC V2 RO Filter systems; the very best you can buy with TDS meter:

Reverse Osmosis Aquarium Water Filter, TDSReverse Osmosis Aquarium Water Filters; with TDS Meter

A good compliment to RO water or for any freshwater aquarium to add ESSENTIAL Mineral Ions:
*Wonder Shells, Mineral Block


Aquarium Forum; Everything Aquatic
An excellent place to go for information, help or simply to share your love of the aquarium and pond hobby and help others. A superior place for information over such places as Yahoo Answers

Aquarium UV Bulbs
UV Replacement Lamps/Bulbs

For TRUE High Output, Hot Cathode, Low Pressure UVC Germicidal Bulbs, not the low output medium pressure bulbs commonly sold at Amazon or eBay


Planaria & Detritus Worms in Aquarium

Melafix Dangers; The Known Facts

Celestial Pearl Danio, Galaxy Rasboras

Aquarium HOB Filter
AAP/SeaChem Tidal High Capacity Aquarium HOB Power Filter (By Sicce)

Premium "Hang On-the Back" Filtration Systems; Including skimmer feature & high capacity filter basket



Spirulina Fish food
Spirulina 20 Fish Food Flake

The best balanced fish flake food diet for Tetras and other fish for disease prevention







ADVERTISEMENT




Labels: , , , , , , ,


Aquarium Nitrates; Lowering Nitrate Levels, How to Control

By Carl Strohmeyer-PAMR 40+ years experience
Updated 9/6/23

AQUARIUM OR POND NITRATES
Including:

OVERVIEW

Although much less toxic than ammonia and nitrite; Nitrate (NO3) as a nitrogen compound can also cause stress making a fish’s organs work harder to adjust to their environment, especially at levels higher than 100 ppm in many fish.
The increasing stress results in the loss of ability to fight diseases, the ability to heal itself, and the ability to reproduce.
It is essential for you, the aquarium (or pond) hobbyist, to maintain a proper environment for your aquatic companions. High nitrate levels are often a sign of poorly maintained aquariums and will cause problems in the long term.


How to Reduce Aquarium Nitrates Video




As a GENERALIZATION (which is the general consensus among experienced fish keeping sources, but also not totally agreed upon), I recommend maximum levels UNDER 40-50 ppm for FW (shooting for numbers under 10-30 for more optimum conditions for many inhabitants).
20 ppm or less for Saltwater fish, & under 5 ppm or less for reef aquariums. For planted freshwater aquariums, about 15 ppm is suggested (or even higher, as too low in planted aquariums can be a problem).

It is also noteworthy that very low nitrate levels in an established aquarium does not necessarily mean that the aquarium is not cycled.
As often a low bio load and/or aspects of natural nitrate reduction such as plants (or Pothos), refugiums, anaerobic de-nitrification filters, etc. along with nitrate lowering methods such as Algone, NPX Bioplastics, Protein Skimmers, etc. can IN FACT keep nitrates at near ZERO numbers. I've seen this 100s of times in my career with my client's aquariums.

If levels exceed these generalized numbers for a LONG period, NOT just a day or even a week, coupled with other water parameter factors such as poor Redox balance, over crowding, poor feeding, and more, this can and will affect long term fish health.
Further Reference: Aquarium Redox

Aquarium Nitrate Control; Test KitLong term high nitrates are potentially dangerous due to the effects on the water chemistry and on a healthy environment for your fish while nitrates are accumulating.
The higher the nitrate levels, the higher and more severe the consequences due to the stress on your fish and the favorable conditions for a serious algae outbreak.

Nitrate levels around 5 ppm or less are found in nature which provides an almost nitrate free environment (although a Nitrate level of around 15 ppm (or even higher depending upon fert dosing) is usually best for planted freshwater aquariums as noted earlier).
The higher the the long term nitrate concentration the more stress for the fish. More severe stress is reached at levels exceeding 100 ppm.
Additional stress MAY be added due to an accumulation of life forms such as detritus worms feeding on decomposing waste, and the consequently higher biomass (organisms living in the aquarium) leads to an increasing demand of oxygen.
Reference: Aquarium Planaria? Actually Detritus Worms

I will also add that although nitrates are not dangerous in the short term unlike ammonia or nitrites; in established tanks I usually test this parameter more often as this is a good indicator of how well I am doing in my tank cleanings.
Example; if enough water is being changed and with the correct frequency, as well as to whether additional nitrate removing products or procedures need to be employed. Tests of KH & GH are also useful in indicating an established tanks health.
Reference: Aquarium Cleaning; Reasons, Frequency, more

One more point about nitrate; I have tested the water on under sized aquariums/bowls containing otherwise healthy goldfish.
The nitrates would often exceed 200 ppm! These goldfish (although they appeared healthy), rarely lived more than 3-5 years as compared to the 12 + years of the goldfish I have kept for clients in pond and larger aquariums.
While not fish, University studies in Cattle show nitrate levels in water over 221 ppm to be harmful or even fatal, so I sure would NOT want my fish kept at nitrate levels approaching this number.

This said, if your nitrates are not always increasing (which constantly increasing nitrates can be an indicator of a high bio load or poor fish keeping practices), I would not go overboard in the average aquarium with a stable nitrate level of 40 ppm or less by spending lots of $$ on nitrate control products or making constant large stressful water changes (small scheduled changes are part of normal fish keeping as per my Aquarium Cleaning Article, but the need to make 50-100% water changes makes me question bio load, filtration feeding, etc))
Reference: Aquarium Cleaning


ADVERTISEMENT


*WHAT ARE NITRATES?

Nitrates (NO3) are compounds composed of a nitrogen and three oxygen atoms and are often the final stage in the nitrogen cycle of fresh and saltwater aquariums if there are not nitrate removing plants, algae, or nitrate reducing anaerobic bacteria present.
Nitrates are the conjugate base (chemical substance that releases a proton in the backward chemical reaction) of nitric acid (HNO3), consisting of one central nitrogen atom surrounded by three identical oxygen atoms.
The presence or production of large amounts nitrates can result in the presence of Nitric acid according to the Brønsted-Lowry theory of acids and bases which will in turn affect an aquariums pH and KH (which can result in dangerous pH swings).
This will also have an affect on your aquariums Redox balance and likely result in higher oxidative stress on your aquarium's inhabitants.

For more about the nitrogen cycle, please reference:
*Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle

Aquarium Nitrates, Bio LoadA high Bio-Load that often produces large amounts of organic mulm and decomposition in an aquarium (or pond) gravel or in filters is often a common cause of persistent nitrate problems.
Another clue to this is a pH that tends to drop quickly, often even with buffers added (assuming a higher new water pH); the breakdown of organic mulm or similar will lower pH while increasing nitrates.
Pockets of decomposing organics are often found in areas of deep fine sand, under rocks or other décor, or in large filters (especially canister filters).




*HIGH NITRATE DANGERS:

High nitrate levels which many sources based in human studies place as low as 30- 45 ppm of nitrate as harmful. The EPA recommend levels under 10 ppm in drinking water, although often this can higher especially in well water.
As for fish, high nitrate levels can cause respiration problems in fish, lower or eliminate the ability to breed, resist disease, and lower activity of aquarium inhabitants.

My own experience and test have shown immediate problems with nitrate as low as 20 ppm with cephlapods in marine aquariums.
However I have kept many general fish from goldfish to cichlids at stable numbers as high as 50 ppm without any noteworthy documented long term problems. I have however noted/documented some long term issues with constant numbers above 50, especially above 100 ppm and higher.
Because of this, as noted earlier, unless your nitrates are showing constant upward trends after every water change, which might indicate a higher bio load than your aquarium system is capable of, do not get too overly concerned with numbers under these.
Further Reading: Bio Load in Aquarium or Pond

Studies show that the toxicity of nitrate is due to nitrite being an intermediate. Nitrites oxidize the iron atoms in hemoglobin from ferrous iron (2+) to ferric iron (3+), rendering it unable to carry oxygen.
This process can lead to generalized lack of oxygen in organ tissue and a dangerous blood condition called methemoglobinemia.
What is noteworthy is that NITRITE also needs to be present, this is why current evidence does not support those in some fish keeping articles that state that anything above 20 ppm nitrate is toxic, as this these assumptions were likely based on nitrite also being present since current scientific evidence shows that nitrates by itself cannot cause these issues at levels at say 30 ppm.
The evidence also suggests that since nitrites were also present, likely such an aquarium was not fully cycled.

In human studies high nitrate levels have been shown to dangerously lower blood pressure by causing the muscles that control the size of blood vessels to relax, this can be dangerous to fish too causing circulatory problems which can again result in poor disease resistance.
High Nitrate levels in aquariums will also result in high algae growths and in marine aquariums is toxic at even low levels to Cephalopods such as Octopus and to corals, although many freshwater fish can tolerate high levels for quite some time based on my experience.

Another danger is in the bloodstream, nitrates can be converted biologically to nitrites, leading to "Brown Blood Disease".

For more on the potential dangers of Nitrates:
*Wikipedia; Nitrate
*Nitrates In Drinking Water
*Wikipedia; Nitrate

Temporary Relief of Nitrate Poisoning:
First, please note that high nitrates are NOT EVEN CLOSE to the danger of high ammonia or nitrites for fish, so if these are the problem, high ammonia and nitrites should be addressed first.
Some have stated that moving from high nitrates to low nitrates or vice versa can also cause nitrate shock similar to pH shock, however this is anecdotal and my tests as well as research have yet to verify such claims (for one nitrates are NOT algorithmic like pH is).

Methylene Blue for Aquarium, aid fish nitrate poisoning*Medicated Baths using Methylene Blue can increase oxygen in the blood and quickly remedy ammonia, nitrite, and especially nitrate poisoning (in this order of effectiveness too with ammonia poisoning the least effective and nitrates the most effective).
See Reference: Performing Medicated Fish Baths, Dips, similar

Product Resource: AAP/Kordon Methylene Blu


Spirulina Algae aid for aquarium fish nitrate poisoning*Spirulina Algae or Chlorophyll Remedy; these build the immune system and increase blood oxygen levels in fish that have suffered from nitrite or nitrate poisoning or oxygen deprivation. Spirulina is the better choice of the two, being much better at increasing immune function.

The most simple and effective way to administer Spirulina is via a high Spirulina based food such as AAP Spirulina 20. Feeding Spirulina based foods although not a replacement for lowering your aquarium or ponds nitrate levels can be a reasonable albeit partial solution to chronic nitrate problems for many fish (not reef inhabitants such as Corals, Cephalopods, etc.).

If you have access to food grade Spirulina or Chlorophyll, these can also be used as a bath:
Pre-mix 1 ounce of spirulina or chlorophyll per gallon of aquarium water (I suggest first liquifying the powder with sterile water to a make a liquid ounce); allow fish to soak for 15-30 minutes; perform this once or twice a daily. Use a fresh bath for each bath using your display tank water.
This can be performed in 1/2 ounces with 1/2 gallon too for smaller fish.

Please read this article for more about Spirulina Algae:
Spirulina Algae

Where to Purchase, Product > *Spirulina 20 Fish Food Flake

*Most importantly, follow the steps below to lower your aquarium or pond nitrates in the first place and often any possible nitrate poisoning issues will go away too.

*REMOVAL / PREVENTION:

Here are a few basics for removal/ prevention of nitrates (I will add to this list over time too)


Further Resources:

Please reference this other Aquarium answers article for more other filter media types as well (including products for phosphate removal), a MUST READ:
Aquarium Filter Media; Types, Capacities and more

Please reference this article for more about the production of Hydrogen Sulfides during the process of De-Nitrification:
Hydrogen Sulfide production in anaerobic De-Nitrification for Aquarium/Pond Nitrate Removal

For a map of Nitrates in World Rivers, please click below
Nitrate Levels in Major World Rivers

For more referenced aquarium information pertaining to:
*Freshwater Aquarium Care, Basics to Advanced
*Saltwater Aquarium Care, Basics to Advanced


Other Recommended Reference & Product Sites/Videos

AAP Spectrogram
One of the most effective medications for the treatment of Columnaris in an aquarium when used as part of the four step program of Columnaris treatment.
A more synergistic combination than purchasing Kanamycin & Nitrofurazone separately.

OR

AAP Yellow Powder; The Premium Nitrofuarazone combination; for Columnaris and Aeromonas next to Spectrogram (as Spectrogram is often not available), the best treatment for Columnaris, despite bad search results recommending Terramycin (oxytetracycline) and other inferior treatments for Columnaris





Columnaris in Fish Video
YouTube; How to: 4 Steps Columnaris Treatment Fish Bacterial Infection


This video goes over the basics of the full four step plan of properly treating Columnaris in aquarium fish and is a compliment to a FULL reading of this article.


The article below is a MUST READ for anyone interested in moving from basic aquarium keeping to more advanced aquarium keeping, including better Redox Balance:
Aquarium or Pond UV Sterilization
Ultraviolet Sterilization, Advanced Aquarium Keeping


Pond Care Information
POND CARE INFORMATION; Complete Steps


Premium Tropic Marin Pro Reef Sea Salt from Germany

Premium Tropic Marin Pro Reef Sea Salt from Germany

There is simply NO BETTER Reef Sea Salt (marine fish too)




UV Replacement Bulbs, LampsUV Replacement Lamps/Bulbs; Aquarium or Pond
For TRUE High Output, Hot Cathode, Low Pressure UVC Germicidal Bulbs, for aquarium or pond


*Sponge Filtration; Complete Information about the use of Sponge Filters in Aquarium or Pond



FISH AS PETS
Fish as Pets with articles & commentary of Interest to the Aquarium Hobby


Aquarium Power Head PumpSunSun JP-023 Aquarium Power Head Water Pumps

Superior performance and value when compared to many more well known brands such as Hagen or Marineland





ADVERTISEMENT




Labels: , , , , , , , , , ,


This page is powered by Blogger. Isn't yours?


Article Research Sponsor
Remember, it is your purchases (both small & large) at our primary sponsor, AAP, that keeps these world class information articles free.
Or please consider a donation (especially International users of this information), even just $5 usd helps.
As our primary sponsor is AAP, which provides little income for its owner after paying staff (including to help others) & upkeep of this information!

If only 10% of users of this information donated $5, this information will be able to remain free in the future!

AQUARIUM ANSWERS;
ARTICLES:

In Chronological order of writing with the newest at the top

  1. How to Treat Sick Fish
  2. Whirling Disease in Fish
  3. Reef Aquarium Chemistry Maintenance
  4. Use of RO, DI, Softwater in Aquariums
  5. Lighting Theory of a Planted Aquarium- RQE, PFY, PAS, & PUR
  6. Aquarium or Pond Bio Load
  7. Tuberculosis in Fish
  8. PUR vs PAR in Aquarium Lighting
  9. Head Pressure in Aquarium and Pond Water Pumps
  10. Fin/Tail Rot For Betta & ALL Fish
  11. Angelfish Virus/Aids
  12. Activated Carbon
  13. Fish Baths/Dips as an aid to treatment
  14. Streptococcus gram positive bacterium in aquariums, Eye Infections
  15. Hydrogen Sulfide
    production in anaerobic De-Nitrification for Aquarium/Ponds
  16. Fish Shipping
  17. Aquarium Size, Fish Stunting
  18. Aquarium Algae,
    BBA & Brown Algae in particular
  19. Aquarium Salt (Sodium chloride) in Freshwater Aquariums
  20. Betta Habitat; Wild Bettas to Domestic Betta environment parameters
  21. HITH; Hole in the Head Disease
  22. Aquarium Protein Skimmers, Ozonizers
  23. Power Head/ Water Pump Review
  24. Molly Disease/ Mollies in an Aquarium
  25. Basic Fish Anatomy, Fin Identification
  26. Aquarium Moving/ Power Failures
  27. Octopus as Aquarium Pets
  28. Aquarium Nitrates
  29. Ichthyophonus protists, fungus in fish
  30. Aquarium and Pond Filter Media
    Types; Mechanical, Bio, Chemical
  31. Aquarium Water Conditioners (also Pond)
  32. Fish Parasites; Trematodes & Monogeneans; Annelids and Nematodes;
    Flukes, internal worms, Detritus Worms (often confused with Planaria), Micro Worms
  33. Aquarium Silicone Application;
    DIY Aquarium Repair & Glass thickness
  34. Pond Veggie Filters; DIY Bog Filter
  35. The difference between Plaster of Paris and Aquarium Products such a Wonder Shells:
  36. NEON TETRA DISEASE
    Identification, prevention & Treatment
  37. AQUARIUM TEST KITS; Use & Importance
  38. SEXING FISH; Basics
  39. Chocolate Chip, Knobby and Fromia Starfish
  40. Freshwater Velvet & Costia
  41. Usnic Acid as a Fish Remedy
  42. Aquarium Heaters; Types, information
  43. The Lateral Line in Fish, Lateral Line Disease
    or Head and Lateral Line Erosion (HLLE)
  44. Tap Water use in Aquarium; Chloramines, Chlorine
  45. Can Black Ghost Knife fish give an electric shock?
  46. Bio Wheel Review; Do Bio-Wheels really work?
  47. How do Fish Drink?
    PROPER OSMOTIC FUNCTION-
    Use of RO Water
  48. Cyclops, and Predatory Damselfly larvae
  49. Betta with Dropsy;
    Treatment and Prevention of DROPSY in all fish
  50. pH and KH problems in African Cichlid Aquarium
  51. Aquarium Gravel, which size?
  52. Blue green algae, Cyanobacteria in Ponds/Aquariums
  53. AQUARIUM ANSWERS DIRECTORY


If you have found this site helpful (or the sister site Aquarium and Pond Information),
please consider adding a link to one of our articles from your own blog or website.


American Aquarium Products along with "Aquarium/Pond Answers" (& other information sites AAP has made or purchased such as Fish Beginner), and our VAST library of information found NOWHERE else, in the world is currently FOR SALE for the right offer. As well our inventory is also part of the offer (currently as of 2021 valued at about $44,000 wholesale).
We hope to carry forward our company's 40+ year legacy of unique information (this also includes several other web and blog sites as well).

Only serious inquiries of at least $50,000 for everything (including inventory) from qualified potential buyers will be considered


Recommended Related Information Sites & Products from our family of PROFESSIONAL aquarium and pond websites:

For help with your Aquarium Chemistry:
Aquarium Chemistry; In Depth Information

World Class Aquarium Information
For unique aquatic products (most professionally tested) and information;
*American Aquarium

Free Shipping AAP

*Sponge Filters that far outperform all other brands or DIY:
*Patented Lustar Hydro Sponge Aquarium Filters

UV Replacement Bulbs/Lamps Directory:
*UV Bulbs directory

*A CLEAR POND; Care & Information

Fish Food Information:
PROPER FISH NUTRITION

Aquarium & Pond UV Sterilizer Use Articles
-Unique articles such as unique UV ideas as well as dispelling myths

Directions/ Instructions/Downloads; Aquarium Pond Products

Aqua UV versus TMC UV Sterilizer
VIDEO: Aqua Pond UV vs TMC AAP Pond UV Clarifier Sterilizer

A comparison of the two top large pond/aquarium-system UV Sterilizers and why the AAP/TMC comes out as the best when price and dwell time is considered

Best Aquarium & Pond Medications
VIDEO: AAP Professional Aquarium & Pond Medications

THE BEST AQUARIUM TREATMENTS ANYWHERE IN THE WORLD! Fresh Product found EXCLUSIVELY at AAP


#Best Aquarium & Pond Fish Products, Grants Pass Oregon

#eBay Community Forum & Bullying, Customer Service




For Website Building/Hosting and who Aquarium Answers recommends (& uses for sister websites):
Website Hosting, powerful web site maker, ecommerce
Make a Website on siterightnow.com


All articles are the copyrighted material of Carl Strohmeyer, these can be used ONLY in part and only with proper hyper link.
Use with Google Adwords/Adsense is STRICTLY prohibited without revenue sharing


FishLink Central




#Great Links
#Carl Strohmeyer; Biography
#Ocean Decor

Links
Archives

For ALL questions, please refer these questions to:
Everything Aquatic Professional Forum Board