Betta Fin Rot; Treatment and Prevention (this applies to most all fish, but since I get so many emails and questions pertaining to Betta Fish, this is the main subject of this article)

Updated 11/10/11
Let me first start out by noting that "Fin Rot" is a generic term that does not define any one disease, rather there are many causes of this Symptom; of which Fin Rot is better described as a symptom with more than one cause.

Often Fin Rot is brought on by injury or ammonia/nitrite poisoning, so when one considers either treating or preventing the symptom of Betta Fin Rot, these are first places to start.

Here are several points, generally in order of importance to check if your Betta has or continues to contract symptoms of fin rot:

1. Make sure your tank/bowl is as close to 0 in ammonia or nitrites at ALL times; if your water starts at 0 ammonia but by the end of the week on "water change day" the level is up to 1 ppm, this is unacceptable!
   I cannot emphasize how often I have traced back cases of Betta Fin Rot (of of more than one bacterial pathogens) to ammonia levels that are constantly in flux!
   
   Personally I recommend a small Sponge Filter if at all possible for a healthy bio filter.
   
   However I realize that many Bettas are kept in small tanks/bowls where this is not possible, but even then keeping a small amount of Matrix Bio Media (or similar high pore bio media) in a medicine/prescription bottle with holes punched/drilled in the sides to allow water through the container, while not allowing the Betta to drag his/her delicate fins across any potentially abrasive surfaces.
   Please click on this picture to enlarge.
   
   Please also read: Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle



2. Water Chemistry other than Nitrogen Cycle (ammonia, nitrites, etc.) parameters.
   This is an area where I think many misunderstandings/mistakes are made along with ammonia spikes.
   Often in emails, forums, and my previous aquarium maintenance "Fish Doctor" house calls, I have found that Betta keepers (& other fish too) tend to worry about pH and use products attempting to "nail down" "hard" ph numbers while ignoring KH and positive mineral ions.
   The KH; which are alkaline buffers plus acid buffers are more essential than a specific pH (within reason as obviously a pH of 5 or 9 is not acceptable).
   These buffers maintain a stable pH and just as importantly carbonate hardness (KH) maintains a healthy nitrogen cycle as without these carbonate buffers your nitrifying bacteria cannot thrive and you end up with even more dangerous ammonia spikes!
   Generally speaking I would recommend a KH of 50-100 ppm and your pH will be just fine for Bettas as long as it is STABLE at some number between 6.5 to as high as 8.2 (reference: Betta Habitat)
   
   The second part of Aquarium Chemistry (GH, KH, pH) that is also important (if not more so) and also missed by many is the need for positive mineral ions in the water for a healthy Betta (or other fish) immune system.
   Often Betta Keepers will use RO, Drinking, or Distilled Water without adding back these essential elements. Even when tap water is used, often products such as "pH down" or "7.0" are employed, which when used alone can drive out some essential mineral ions.
   Best is a balanced approach which includes actually maintaining GH (of over 100 ppm) if only to maintain these essential mineral ions (cations) which are depleted quickly even though your GH test kit shows a higher GH (please read the GH section of Aquarium Chemistry; Gh)
   
   Using products such as Bio Lif (preferred) or Atisons Spa for their Indian Almonds leaves to naturally provide a tannin acid buffer (Peat can work too) along with Alkaline Buffers such as SeaChem Alkaline Buffer is a must for use with RO water and even some tap waters.
   Then the use of products such as Wonder Shells to provide a constant supply of positive mineral ions is very helpful, if not essential in small tanks/bowls to aid in constant replenishment (water changes help too). These mineral blocks come in sizes small enough for a fish bowl and can be used with Bio Lif (the Bio Lif can be placed in the filter bag it comes in or even split open and placed in a small medicine container/bottle as suggested earlier for bio filter media for smaller bowls/tanks since the Bio Lif is available in "tea bags" meant for 10 gallon tanks).
   
   Please read Aquarium Chemistry, SE Asia Water for much more; a must read!!



3. Injury is another potential issue with Bettas; Make sure you have smooth decorations (such as marbles). Also watch for reflections that may make your Betta chase his tail (like a dog!); in fact if your Betta is dealing with symptoms of tail rot, I strongly recommend covering your tank/bowl with a towel or similar for a calming effect that can and does help.



4. One of the first actual treatments I would consider is a Medicated Fish bath that includes salt (Sodium Chloride), Methylene Blue, and a mix of antibiotics Nitrofurazone and Kanamycin.
   The methylene blue is very helpful for fin rot and ulcerations caused by ammonia or nitrite poisoning.
   However Methylene Blue is not as a strong an antibacterial for gram negative bacteria, if these baths are ineffective, I would switch to Potassium Permanganate (which is a stronger oxidizer). Potassium Permanganate should be used only with salt and no antibiotics.
   
   See this Aquarium Answers post for more about how to perform such a bath:
   Fish Baths



5. Next, assuming your Betta actually has a bacterial infection; the most common cause of fin rot being Aeromonas Bacterium, you may have to start an in tank treatment.
   Please read Aquarium Aeromonas, Septicemia, more first and consider the suggestions and treatments there in.
   
   A strong "in tank" treatment would be the before mentioned (for fish baths) Nitrofurazone and Kanamycin combination.
   Another alternative (which can also be used in baths) is Triple Sulfa. This is an excellent broad spectrum alternative to the Kanamycin/Nitrofurazone combination and although generally not as "strong" a treatment, it is occasionally effective when the Kanamycin/Nitrofurazone combination is ineffective. As well Triple Sulfa is generally less harsh on the fish.
   
   If this is a serious infection, most often these are caused by gram negative bacteria (such as Aeromonas) and treatment with primarily gram positive antibiotics such as Tetracycline or even Maracyn 2 (to a slightly lessor extent) will often be futile as the vast majority of aquarium bacterial infections are gram negative. (please read Aquarium Medications; Page One)
   
   If this is a minor infection, often just the baths and/or a mild in tank treatment may help (assuming correct water parameters as addressed earlier in this article). Products such as Medicated Wonder Shells or Pimafix/Melafix can help (with Melafix use with Bettas, a pH over 7 and GH over 100 is a must; see Melafix Dangers)

Other Suggested Reading is:
*A Healthy Aquarium, Disease Prevention
Even suggested steps such as the use of a UV Sterilizer should be considered if at all possible, although usually not practical for the average Betta owner. However with larger Betta Breeders or similar multi Betta specimen tanks with dividers, the use of a UV Sterilizer may be practical. Make sure is you are able to employ a UV Sterilizer that you change your UV bulb every six months for optimum efficiency.

Labels: Atisons Spa, Betta, Betta Disease, Betta Gh, Betta pH, Calcium, Fin Rot, High Ammonia, Indian Almond Leaf, Mineral Ions