AQUARIUM TEST KITS; what they are used for and their importance.

It is always best to have as many different test kits as you can afford (as they apply to either freshwater or saltwater
I prefer to purchase my test kits separately as most master test kits duplicate tests I do not need (high range and low range ph) and leave out ones I need such as KH and GH, or possibly Phosphate, Calcium, or Redox (although the API 5 in 1 Test Strips have the tests that I generally use for my established tanks in a very convenient form that are surprisingly accurate).

Another important point to testing your aquarium is that it is always useful to know what your tap water parameters are for comparison to aquarium water, this way you can make educated decisions as to water changes or problems with parameters such as pH. It is noteworthy that tap water (including well water) needs to “gas out” before testing for pH as trapped CO2 will often give false readings of a lower pH until all the CO2 evacuates he water sample (I have seen more than .5 pH changes in gassing out). Please reference this article for more information about pH: “Calcium, pH, GH, KH and Electrolytes in Aquariums”

In marine aquariums it is also important to know what your pre-mixed water alkalinity, pH, and nitrates are as well as the water you use to top off for evaporation.


Here is a list of FRESHWATER Test Kits, followed by Saltwater Test kits (many tests overlap, so I do not give a full explanation in both sections, often I will give the full explanation in the freshwater section).





[1] Ammonia Test Kit ; There are two common Ammonia test kits used most often by aquarists;
The Salicylate test kits that read the lower range needed for aquarium keeping between 0-1.0 ppm. The other common ammonia test Kit is the Nessler test, which reads in shades of yellow or amber for all its readings and tests in the high range of 3-10 ppm. The Salicylate test reads in shades of yellow to green to blue-green, and is much easier to read than the Nessler test and more appropriate for aquarium fish and sensitive invertebrates since it is more accurate at lower ppm.
The API Ammonia Test Kit is a popular liquid Salicylate based ammonia test kit.

Another type of test kit is the SeaChem Multi Test Ammonia or the SeaChem Ammonia Alert which uses a gas exchange sensor system which is not affected by the presence of Prime, Amquel Plus, AmmoLock, etc., or other similar products. It also has the added advantage that it can detect the more dangerous free ammonia and distinguish it from total ammonia (which is both the free and ionized forms of ammonia (NH4, the ionized form is not toxic)).
The SeaChem Ammonia Alert is an innovative color device which also uses a gas exchange sensor for continuously detecting and monitoring toxic free ammonia. A sensor changes reversibly from yellow to green to blue, relative to the ammonia concentration. No test kits, chemicals, or procedures are needed with this and it generally last up to a year.

Ammonia is very toxic even at low levels, should be kept at or near 0. Ammonia test kits cannot discern between highly toxic ammonia (NH3) and only slightly toxic ammonium (NH4). Products such as Prime , Ammolock, and Amquel/ Amquel Plus will convert NH3 to NH4, so your toxic ammonia level will not test accurately after using one of these products. Ammonium (NH4) will convert to NH3 at higher pH levels, which why high ammonia levels as per test are much more toxic at higher pH.
Of these products (and there are more as well) I recommend Prime and Amquel Plus as these two leave the NH4 and nitrites in an ionized form that is still bio available for nitrifying bacteria which is especially important if the tank is not fully “cycled” for whatever reason.

Most Salicylate or Nessler based ammonia test kits will show similar results before and after Prime or Amquel Treatment, but this is still useful than using no test at all unless you have the SeaChem Multi Ammonia Test that can detect the ionized from non ionized ammonia.
Look at it from this perspective, even though your test may not truly show the toxic ammonia levels, rather just total ammonia, you can feel secure that most of the NH3 has been ionized and your fish are safe for at least 24 hours after dosing. This will also let you know how your cycle is progressing as despite some aquarists inaccurate comments; Prime and Amquel Plus do NOT interfere with the nitrifying bacteria and at least the test with a Salicylate Test Kit (with all its inaccuracies as per not differentiating between NH3 & NH4) will let you know this progression and bluntly this test should be performed even if Prime or similar products are used until ammonia readings return to 0.

[2] kH & GH Test Kit ; you will notice I placed this above a pH test Kit, this due to the fact that a poor kH will make keeping a stable pH nearly impossible.
Also Calcium (as tested in GH) is more important to fish health than many aquarists give credit and in fact there is more scientific evidence to that shows how essential Calcium (as well as other minerals such as Magnesium) are to proper fish osmoregulation. More to the point, in low calcium water, fish can lose (leak) substantial quantities of other essential minerals (such as Potassium and Sodium) into the water.

Quite bluntly a GH test kit should be part of every Freshwater aquarists equipment.
Please read this article for more on this important subject: CALCIUM, KH, AND MAGNESIUM IN AQUARIUMS; How to maintain a Proper KH, why calcium and electrolytes are important.
*You want to maintain a KH & GH of around 50/100 ppm respectively (around 2-3 dKH & dGH) for Discus, Rams, Cardinals, and other Amazon fish.
*A KH of 80-120 and a GH of 100- 250 for most tropical fish including Gouramis, Bettas, Angelfish, etc.
*A KH of 100-160 and a GH of 150-300 for Goldfish, mollies, Platties, Guppies, etc.
*A KH of 150+ and a GH of over 200 for Rift Lakes African Cichlids and Brackish fish such as Monos and Scats.
I also generally recommend the use of titration GH/KH test kits as these are far more accurate than test strips for hardness test whether general or carbonate (although the newer API 5 in 1 test strips have proven to be nearly as accurate as titration test kits).
A Titration test kit uses a drop counting method to determine the degrees of 'German' hardness (one drop per degree) which can then be converted to ppm by multiplying by 17.9


[3] pH High Range OR Low Range Test Kit ; you should only need one or the other based on the type of aquarium you keep.
Does not stress over being exact about pH, as too of many aquarists go WAY overboard here! For example Discus generally do best around 6.5, however I know breeders of Discus using water with a pH well over 7.0

I recommend a High Range Test Kit for Goldfish and livebearers which should have a targeted pH of about 7.5-7.8. Rift Lake African cichlids should have a pH of over 8.0
I recommend a Low Range Test Kit for general community freshwater fish (6.8- 7.4) or Amazon River fish (under 6.8)

[4] Nitrate Test Kit ; this test is important to know when to change your water (along with KH), as well as how well your general long term tank health is going. Nitrates will also show you how well your plants are consuming nitrogenous nutrients, and if you are vacuuming the aquarium properly such as removing all the mulm. Some filters such as Under Gravel in particular, and Wet Dry and Canister filters can become nitrate factories if not taken care of properly.
For most freshwater fish a nitrate level under 40 ppm is correct or above 15 ppm for planted aquariums.

[5] Nitrite Test Kit; you will notice I put it lower on the list, not because it is not important, only that if budget is a concern or time for testing is a factor, this parameter mirrors ammonia often within hours or days. Nitrite should be at or near 0. This is of coarse still an important test, especially during cycling, however if money is an issue, I recommend that one waits for the ammonia to come down, then count about 3-5 days before adding fish.

[6] Iron Test Kit; Generally only necessary in planted aquariums.
Iron levels need to be carefully monitored in order to maintain lush, planted aquariums. It is recommended to test iron with a frequency that will maintain the suggested iron level of 0.25 to 0.5 mg/L.

[7] Phosphate Test Kit; generally only necessary in planted aquariums where large amounts of ‘ferts’ (fertilizer) are added or if you have uncontrollable algae growth. This test kit is often more important for ponds where rain water can wash debris with high phosphate content into the pond.
Another source of phosphates is tap water. Many municipalities use phosphates to reduce the levels of lead that have been found in drinking water. Phosphates create a protective film on the inside of the pipe, slowing the electrochemical processes that can lead to corrosion.
Poor quality fish foods can also be a source of phosphates in aquarium water. Try and purchase a dry fish food with as little as possible of processed ingredients. Aquatrol Spirulina 20 is probably one of the best basic flake foods available when it come to low phosphate content (and quality ingredients and nutrition as well)

Your aquarium (or pond) should have phosphate levels as close to 0 as possible.

[8] CO2 Test Kit; This test kit or similar (such as a CO2 drop checker) can be VERY useful for serious planted freshwater aquarium enthusiasts. I highly recommend using a KH test kit as well for the most accurate results. The Azoo pictured uses a titration method of counting drops after which you cross reference with your KH to determine the appropriate CO2 level for your planted aquarium; for example: 10-15 ppm CO2 (mg/L) at 5 dKH (90 ppm KH).
Please read this article for much more in depth information about planted freshwater aquariums:
“Planted Freshwater Aquariums”


[9] Multi Test Strips; Although not a specific test kit per say, I feel these should be mentioned as I personally use these for convenience for testing my clients aquariums with usually satisfactory result. Although generally not as accurate as liquid test kits and definitely more expensive per test, they more than make up for it in the speed of testing when time is a factor (which it often is for me in my business). As well, the accuracy of the test strips I have used rivals most common liquid tests as long as they are kept dry (the shelf life is not as long on test strips though).
What I like best are the API 5 in 1 Test Strips as even though they do not have ammonia (having nitrites gives me a good idea of the likely ammonia in an established tank) they have all the essential tests I need for my clients established aquariums (which made up more than 95% of my test needs). Only in new tanks would I break out the liquid Ammonia test Kit.
Three test that I consider essential for freshwater tanks are the KH, Nitrates and GH. (the nitrates to see if my filtration water changes are correct , the KH for pH stability, and finally the very important but unfortunately forgotten GH test for important calcium and other essential electrolytes.


[10] Redox Meter; generally this water parameter will take of itself provided you perform proper aquarium husbandry including, regular water changes with properly ionized water, you maintain a GH and KH level of at least 50 ppm (I find 80 ppm better). This said, this is a good parameter to check if you are having problems with Cyanobacteria (Blue Green Algae) or if you are having unexplained problems and every other test is correct (providing you do not have an unknown disease). I recommend every aquarist be at least familiar with the Redox Potential, here is an in depth article about aquarium Redox: “The Redox Potential in Aquariums (& Ponds) and how it relates to proper aquatic health” . You can use Methylene Blue according to standard dosage to your aquarium water (remove the water for this test), and it stays a brilliant blue, you probably have a positive Redox. If the color dissipates at all (even the slightest) you probably have a reducing number. This test in no way replaces the accuracy of Redox meter, but it is a simple way to get a handle on your aquariums Redox health.
Your aquarium Redox should be around -300 mV, although I have found that balance of both reduction AND oxidation is important, so in a healthy aquarium you should observe different numbers as an indicator of the primary Redox process taking place at the time, such as a reducing Redox immediately following the introduction of water conditioners that remove chlorine, chloramines, etc.

[11] Silicate Test Kit; Please see the saltwater section for more about these test kits. For FW the primary use is for ongoing Brown diatom algae problems.


SALTWATER;
The list remains similar and I will bypass descriptions that are in common with freshwater test kits.

[1] Ammonia Test Kit; this should be 0 as in FW

[2] KH Test Kit; you do not need a GH Test Kit for saltwater. KH (or alkalinity as is called in marine aquariums) should be over 240 ppm (13 dKH)

[3] PH High Range Test Kit; your pH should be between 8.2 - 8.4


[4] Hydrometer; this instrument tests the specific gravity of aquarium water (in simple terms the amount of salts). There are two types; the floating glass hydrometers which are more fragile, but also more accurate or the simple needle hydrometer that you fill with water. It is important with both types of hydrometers to clean these with white vinegar (then rinse thoroughly) to prevent hard water buildup which will then cause inaccurate readings.

[4] Nitrate Test Kit; Nitrates are best under 30-40 for marine fish aquariums and under 20 (even less if possible) for reef aquariums

[5] Calcium Test Kit; this takes the place of the GH Test Kit in freshwater.
Calcium is important to ALL marine life (this includes freshwater too as it is often sadly overlooked), however it is absolutely essential for proper coral growth in marine aquariums. Bio-availability is also essential, Sea Chem Reef Calcium Polygluconate is probably one of the best, most bio-available calcium supplements available for marine aquariums.
Your marine Calcium levels should be between 400-450 ppm

[6] Nitrite Test Kit this should be 0 as in FW

[7] Dissolved Oxygen Test Kit; This kit although not essential is very useful, especially when you suspect over crowding or problems seem to reoccur. Saltwater (depending on salinity) holds roughly 42% less oxygen than freshwater. Warm water is much less capable of holding oxygen gas in solution than cool water. For example, water that is 90°F can only hold 7.29 ppm DO at total saturation, whereas water that is 45°F can hold 12.13 ppm DO at total saturation. A dissolved oxygen level of 5-7 ppm is sufficient, the first signs of stress in fish will show if the DO drops below 4 ppm, fatalities will occur at 2 ppm.
These problems will affect Dissolved oxygen (Freshwater or Saltwater):
*No or too little water agitation (via the surface)
*An overstocked tank, which results in larger amounts of waste (bio load) created that in return requires more bacteria to oxygenate the waste.*Over feeding
*Waste rotting in the filter or in the gravel (common under rocks, in Wet-Dry and Canister filters)
*Green and cloudy water.

This said as for too low of disolved oxygen, it is possible to have too high of disolved oxygen as well (although much less likely), this is called oxygen intoxication. Signs of too high DO are usually simple to see on larger fish; for instance, air bubbles seem to come out of the scales. Your aquarium disolved oxygen level should not be higher than 10 ppm

[8] Magnesium Test Kit; Magnesium is an essential part of chlorophyll, which is necessary for photosynthesis, plants, including algae and the corals. Maintaining a correct magnesium concentration is very important, and is indirectly responsible for fast coral and calcareous algae growth by virtue of making the maintenance of correct calcium and alkalinity figures possible. Magnesium is depleted by algae and by the use of excessive Kalkwasser. Magnesium is what binds Calcium Carbonate in solution, if levels are low useable calcium levels will also drop. Poor choices of Marine Buffers can further exasperate this problem, this why I STRONGLY recommend Sea Chem Marine Buffer for adjusting alkalinity in marine aquariums (and EVEN freshwater aquariums) as this product has Magnesium, Calcium, and sodium bicarbonate in the proper ratios.
Magnesium levels in marine aquariums should be between 1200 and 1400 ppm.

[9] Iodine Test Kit; This test kit is important for reef aquaria, especially corals, both soft and hard. Iodine is present in natural sea water in a very low concentration (0.6 mg/L or 0.06 PPM) and this iodine occurs as several different species including iodide, iodate, molecular iodine and hypoiodite. It should be noted that time released iodine supplements or supplements containing organically bound/complexed iodine species will give false results with iodine test kits

[10] Strontium Test Kit; This test kit is important in accelerating the growth of coral and calcareous algae. Natural sea water contains approx. 7 - 9 mg/L strontium. Strontium is very difficult to test for, but if there is found to be a depletion of calcium in the aquarium then strontium levels are likely to be very low as well. Strontium concentration should be kept between 5 and 20 mg/L.

[11] Silicate Test Kit; Although listed in the saltwater section, this test kit can also be useful for testing silicates in freshwater as well, especially where Brown Diatom Algae is a continuing problem. Most silicate test kits are designed to test for silicates down to .2 ppm (mg/L). Natural seawaters contain silicates around 10 ppm however due to differences in a closed system (which an aquarium is) and the ocean it is best to maintain silicates under 1 ppm in an aquarium to prevent diatom blooms and aid in uptake of essential elements such as Strontium by corals.
In freshwater, silicates are generally between 4-20 ppm and should be kept under 4 ppm in an aquarium, although usually this is not a problem in healthy established freshwater aquariums where lighting is good to encourage plants or green algae (both of which will starve also consume silicates limiting diatom growth)


[12] Redox Meter; as in freshwater, balance is most important, except Redox is more important consideration in marine aquariums.

[13] Phosphate Test Kit; as in freshwater this should near 0. High phosphate levels in marine aquariums can play havoc with the health and growth of live coral (Phosphates can block the absorption of important minerals).

For more about marine/saltwater aquarium keeping, please read this article: Marine/Saltwater Aquarium Keeping Basics & Information

For more about aquarium test kits, please read this article:
THE TRUTH ABOUT WATER FOR AQUARIUMS AND PONDS, AND ABOUT WATER TEST KITS

Labels: Aquarium Test Kit ammonia multi strips titration GH KH pH