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Dropsy in Fish; Swollen Betta, Kidney Infection


Betta, Platy, goldfish, fish with DropsyDROPSY in fish; prevention, causes, and possible treatment of this malady that is often a symptom of other problems.

By Carl Strohmeyer
Updated 5/21/16

This article originated from a forum post that I responded to where the owner of a female betta fish was attempting to treat this often un-treatable malady.

The fish keeper noted that she (the female Betta) seemed buoyant and the swollen cavity appears to be filled by either air, or a clear liquid, when she swims in front of the lights.
The fish owner was also instructed to use Maracyn (Erythromycin), which is generally a poor choice for Dropsy since the main treatable cause is Aeromonas bacteria and Aeromonas is a gram negative bacterium so the use of Erythromycin is generally useless.
Aeromonas Infections in Fish

My suggestion would be to use Kanamycin in both the tank AND in a medicated bath at double normal dose (for 30 minutes)

Please Read:
*Use of Kanamycin, Kanaplex in Aquariums, Ponds
*Medicated Fish Baths

What is Dropsy?

Dropsy is generally a symptom of something else other than the classic and more noticeable symptoms that are then labeled as "Dropsy".
Most often Dropsy is Kidney related, which results in swelling and fluid retention due to poor kidney function results in the classic "pinecone" look of fish sick with Dropsy.
Poor osmoregulation is usually the second most common cause, and in more rare instances digestive, and maybe liver malfunction/infections.

The loss of ability for osmo-regulation of electrolytes is often a contributing cause, which is another reason for correct positive mineral ion and trace element levels.
Please see these two articles:
*Aquarium Chemistry; Calcium, Electrolytes, GH, KH, & more
*Do Fish Drink; Proper Osmotic Function .

Generally due to the cause or area of infection (or organ failure), Dropsy can often be very difficult to treat, especially if caught in an advanced case in the fish.
What the aquarist often observes is a “pinecone” swelling generally caused by fluid building inside the body cavity (often involving the Kidneys), for this reason, reducing this swelling is an important step in effecting a cure.
I have heard of Minocycline also being recommended for this (although it can be effective). I do not recommend this as Minocycline has been shown to cause serious damage to the kidneys, which is the last thing you want to do to a fish suffering from Dropsy or even suspected of this malady.

Information on Minocycline:
Use of Minocycline, Maracyn 2 for fish treatment

I would also note that since Aeromonas bacteria is a common cause of infections that result in Dropsy and since this bacterium is often anaerobic; maintaining good circulation, aeration and overall good tank hygiene goes a long ways in treatment and even further for prevention (since Dropsy is difficult to treat and cure).
Please read more about optimum tank conditions in the prevention section further into this article, as I have been able to prevent Dropsy much more successfully (as per controlled tests) than actually treat a full blown case of Dropsy!.

Sometimes liver issues are blamed for Dropsy, which is certainly possible, however liver malfunction and infections generally do not result in the classic "pinecone" Dropsy appearance, rather the fish may bloat slightly and almost always results in loss of color, loss of appetite, and the fish tends to hide more.
One of the functions of the liver is to remove toxins and this is why the symptoms I describe are more prevalent with liver issues.

This said, besides treatment for a possible underlying infection, you want to take steps to remove the swelling.

Here are the steps I would take (these apply to ALL fish, not just Bettas):


The Aeromonas bacteria (that is often present in healthy aquariums) can cause infections that will manifest this way in poor water conditions, especially in aquariums with poor circulation and high amounts of DOC (dissolved organic compounds) along with a high "Bio-Load" as Aeromonas Bacteria can be anaerobic and thrive in low oxygen, high dissolved organics conditions.
Please also reference: Bio load in Aquariums

So maintaining a healthy aquarium with regular water changes, good filtration (if possible, as this is why I see more cases of Dropsy in Betta kept in a bowl), good feeding practices (not over feeding and using quality foods), and maintaining proper water parameters (ammonia and nitrites 0, kH 50+ ppm, GH 100+ ppm, nitrates under 40 ppm).

A water parameter that is often missed (as the more obvious ammonia and nitrites are usually noticed) is proper calcium and electrolytes (positive mineral cations).
If RO is used (or drinking water that is nothing more than RO water with a few minerals added for “taste”), there are usually insufficient electrolytes and calcium for proper osmotic function and fluid retention can result, which will then lead to kidney infections.

Please read these articles for more about this aspect of fish care:
*Proper Osmotic Function; Use of RO Water
* AQUARIUM CHEMISTRY; The importance of Calcium, GH, KH, Magnesium to Fish

All this goes a long way in prevention of Dropsy and other diseases, especially when poor osmoregulation is the direct cause or even indirect cause of Dropsy.
By indirect I mean opportunistic infections getting a foothold internally in your fish due to poor levels mineral cations & buffers present in your aquarium water.

A proper diet makes a large difference here.
Do not feed your fish "meat based" proteins. I recommend aquatic based proteins such as white fish meal, shrimp or even the proteins found in spirulina algae.

As a basic Betta diet I recommend Sanyu or Hikari Betta Gold pelleted foods.
There are many other quality Betta foods as well, although I do not recommend flake foods for bettas as their staple diet.
However Flake Food such as Spirulina based Spirulina 20 are excellent when used as a "fish food slurry/soak" for frozen or freeze dried brine shrimp, worms or other carnivorous diet food that Bettas prefer

For other fish, Spirulina 20 is an excellent staple diet that can and should be combined with other foods to provide complete nutritional variation.

Poor quality proteins (or better; unusable amino acids for fish) can lead to digestive problems or Renal failure, which CAN lead to the symptoms of Dropsy.
All proteins are made up of amino acids, some are usable (by fish), and some are not.
Those that are not are disposed of by kidneys in the fish. This can lead to renal failure or infection.
This is where highly digestible foods such as Spirulina algae come in.

Also always soak all dry foods in water for 5 minutes prior to feeding as this will remove air that can lead to infections of the digestive tract (this is best for ALL fish, goldfish in particular).

For more information about proper nutrition, see this article:
"Fish Nutrition; What ingredients are needed for proper fish growth and health".
See also this section: Fish Nutrition; FD/Frozen Foods Spirulina Slurry

Other suggested reading:
Spirulina Algae; The Aquatic Health Benefits for Tropical, Marine and Goldfish.

Fish Food Recommendations, product links:
*Spirulina 20 Fish Flake Food
*Sanyu Betta Gold
*Hikari Betta Bio-Gold
*Hikari Spirulina Enhanced Brine Shrimp

The above is a VERY short list of quality, highly digestible fish food diets, so please read the article I suggested earlier about Fish Nutrition!!

To summarize prevention; I have seen very few cases of Dropsy in the literally 1000s of aquariums I have maintained in regular contracts over the years.
HOWEVER, I have seen MANY cases of Dropsy when non service customers call me out to see why their fish are sick and I often will observe very poor water conditions feeding practices, etc.
The reason is simple for my regular contract customers success, I have always maintained my tanks with regular cleanings, proper electrolyte levels, a balanced Redox, proper fish nutrition, and often UV Sterilization.

Other Recommended Reference & Product Sites

* “Aquarium Disease Prevention”
In controlled test/studies, the incidence of Dropsy was almost non-existent where all points outlined in the above Disease Prevention article were followed!!

*Aquarium Redox Potential

*UV Sterilization, Sterilizer Use; The importance in fish disease prevention

*Freshwater Aquarium Care Basics & Information

*Aquarium Filtration Information

*Aquarium Answers, Fish anatomy, fin identificationFish Anatomy For further help in understanding the anatomy of fish (so as to know where the Kidneys are located), please read this article.

*Planaria & Detritus Worms in Aquarium

The best in Quartz, Under gravel, and Titanium Submersible Heaters:

Aquarium Heaters

TMC V2 RO Filter systems; the very best you can buy with TDS meter:
Reverse Osmosis Aquarium Water Filter, TDSReverse Osmosis Aquarium Water Filters; with TDS Meter

AquaRay Ultra Premium Aquarium LED Lights

Highest in PUR, The ONLY LED with an IP67 rating or higher for water proofing along with a full 5 year warranty to back them up! Why purchase brands without this rating such as the Finnex, Current, or Fluval only to be essentially placing an electronic light emitting device over your humid aquarium with little or no guarantee? In the long term, you WILL PAY MORE!

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In Chronological order of writing with the newest at the top
  1. Whirling Disease in Fish
  2. Reef Aquarium Chemistry Maintenance
  3. Use of RO, DI, Softwater in Aquariums
  4. Lighting Theory of a Planted Aquarium- RQE, PFY, PAS, & PUR
  5. Aquarium or Pond Bio Load
  6. Tuberculosis in Fish
  7. PUR vs PAR in Aquarium Lighting
  8. Head Pressure in Aquarium and Pond Water Pumps
  9. Fin/Tail Rot For Betta & ALL Fish
  10. Angelfish Virus/Aids
  11. Activated Carbon
  12. Fish Baths/Dips as an aid to treatment
  13. Streptococcus gram positive bacterium in aquariums, Eye Infections
  14. Hydrogen Sulfide
    production in anaerobic De-Nitrification for Aquarium/Ponds
  15. Fish Shipping
  16. Aquarium Size, Fish Stunting
  17. Aquarium Algae,
    BBA & Brown Algae in particular
  18. Aquarium Salt (Sodium chloride) in Freshwater Aquariums
  19. Betta Habitat; Wild Bettas to Domestic Betta environment parameters
  20. HITH; Hole in the Head Disease
  21. Aquarium Protein Skimmers, Ozonizers
  22. Power Head/ Water Pump Review
  23. Molly Disease/ Mollies in an Aquarium
  24. Basic Fish Anatomy, Fin Identification
  25. Aquarium Moving/ Power Failures
  26. Octopus as Aquarium Pets
  27. Aquarium Nitrates
  28. Ichthyophonus protists, fungus in fish
  29. Aquarium and Pond Filter Media
    Types; Mechanical, Bio, Chemical
  30. Aquarium Water Conditioners (also Pond)
  31. Fish Parasites; Trematodes & Monogeneans; Annelids and Nematodes;
    Flukes, internal worms, Detritus Worms (often confused with Planaria), Micro Worms
  32. Aquarium Silicone Application;
    DIY Aquarium Repair & Glass thickness
  33. Pond Veggie Filters; DIY Bog Filter
  34. The difference between Plaster of Paris and Aquarium Products such a Wonder Shells:
    Identification, prevention & Treatment
  36. AQUARIUM TEST KITS; Use & Importance
  37. SEXING FISH; Basics
  38. Chocolate Chip, Knobby and Fromia Starfish
  39. Freshwater Velvet & Costia
  40. Usnic Acid as a Fish Remedy
  41. Aquarium Heaters; Types, information
  42. The Lateral Line in Fish, Lateral Line Disease
    or Head and Lateral Line Erosion (HLLE)
  43. Tap Water use in Aquarium; Chloramines, Chlorine
  44. Can Black Ghost Knife fish give an electric shock?
  45. Bio Wheel Review; Do Bio-Wheels really work?
  46. How do Fish Drink?
    Use of RO Water
  47. Cyclops, and Predatory Damselfly larvae
  48. Betta with Dropsy;
    Treatment and Prevention of DROPSY in all fish
  49. pH and KH problems in African Cichlid Aquarium
  50. Aquarium Gravel, which size?
  51. Blue green algae, Cyanobacteria in Ponds/Aquariums

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