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Aquarium Answers Index

Aquarium/Pond Answers is brought to you from Aquarium Keeping Guru Carl Strohmeyer

Carl Strohmeyer (now retired), has fish keeping experience going back to 1968, and professional fish keeping/research experience going back to 1978.
He has authored more free internet articles than any other person, expert or otherwise.
These articles are found here at Aquarium Answers" as well as in the fish/aquarium/pond keeping library at "AAP Aquarium Information". He has also authored in full or in part many articles found in blogs such as "Fish As Pets".

This "Home" page is designed as a directory of articles here at Aquarium Answers (we also provide the list of articles in the right navigation bar on every post/article that is set in chronological order)

Our newest articles are:

How to Treat Sick Fish

Whirling Disease (Myxobolus cerebralis) in Fish

Reef Aquarium Chemistry Maintenance

Use of RO, DI, Softwater in Aquariums

TOPICS-

AQUARIUM CHEMISTRY:

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AQUARIUM DISEASES, TREATMENTS AND SIMILAR


AQUARIUM FILTER MEDIA, CONDITIONERS, SIMILAR


AQUARIUM & POND FILTERS, PUMPS, LIGHTING & OTHER EQUIPMENT


FISH CARE, HELP, BASICS, ALGAE & MORE


GENERAL AQUARIUM/ POND CARE INFORMATION


SUMMARY

As I also note at Aquarium & Pond Information although some of these articles/posts are more basic in nature, many are more in depth and require a thorough reading to fully understand and picking out snips without reading the full article may yield incomplete information.

A little background; when I first started writing these articles for the internet (something many of my clients asked for years), I made them VERY basic.
My early feedback was rather harsh as many said it was "nothing special", then some who knew me better said that although they were still better than many in content due to less anecdotal information, they did not come close to the delivering the information they knew I could and that my constant research should be reflected.
Many experts in SEO told me similar as well. So now, although some of the articles are still more basic and not all that unique, most however will have well researched information you will not find elsewhere in one location and this information is only best understood when read in full.

I will make my point as to why I feel it is so important that these articles be read in full and not in snips which can result in anecdotal or poor information dissemination;

"In the 1980s I was mentored by an Endocrinologist (MD) whom was also an avid fish keeper (mostly marine). He helped me much understand the ins and outs of medications and one time gave me an in depth medical article that he though had useful information that could be applied to fish as well. Much of the information was not readily easy to understand for me, so I skipped over many sections and gleaned the points I wanted.
Later I was making some points to the Dr. and he stopped me and said I was incorrect and if I had read the article in full, to which I replied, 'no'. He then said that there is no way I could understand this article without reading it in full and applying ALL the information contained there in".
My point is, often it is easy and unfortunately ALL too common in this hobby to read just what we want, and many web sites (such as about.com) are good at satisfying this basically lazy desire (of which I too have been guilty of), however this often leads to poor understandings of the subject or worse.

Back To Top

Other Recommended Reference/Product Sites

The article below is a MUST READ for anyone interested in moving from basic aquarium keeping to more advanced aquarium keeping, including better improved Redox Balance:
Aquarium, Pond UV Sterilization and affect on water conditioners
Aquarium & Pond 'TRUE' UV Sterilizer Use

Freshwater Aquarium Care
Freshwater Aquarium Care

Aquarium Lighting
Aquarium Light Information
This is THE article for in-depth, researched, and regularly updated information on the subject of aquarium lighting; a MUST READ!


POND CARE INFORMATION; for a "Clear Pond"


FISH AS PETS AQUATIC NEWS
Fish as Pets with articles & commentary of Interest to the Aquarium Hobby
Including these MUST READ articles:
*PUR or RQE, YouTube Video Fail- Guide to lighting a planted tank
*Common Aquarium Keeping Myths
*EcoTech Radion Versus TMC Aqua Ray HO LED Aquarium Lights
*Reef Central; Aquarium UV Sterilizer Hall of Shame


# posted by Steven : 11:38 AM

Fish Diseases | How to Treat Sick Fish

Sick Fish, How to Treat, cartoon  

By Carl Strohmeyer-PAMR 40+ years experience

Updated 5-9-23

Gill, How to treat sick fish, 1 The purpose of this article is not to provide any specific treatment regimen for the readers fish, rather to provide an outline that will provide a better chance for success over the typical "my fish are sick and what medications & how much should I dump into my aquarium" question.
Obviously the starting place is aquarium disease prevention, but many readers will be too late to this aspect of fish husbandry, which is the point of this particular article.


A good professionally written article for prevention of aquarium disease is this one:
"Aquarium Disease Prevention; Proven Steps for a Healthy Aquarium"

Every single step in the above article should be followed to a T and I can guarantee that the incidence of disease will go down greatly.

Hopefully readers will acquaint themselves with this above referenced article which will in part form a basis for this article as I go forward.
As well this article is another good read before one goes forward with any fish treatment:
"Aquarium Medications; Part 1"

Gill, How to treat sick fish, 2 I cannot emphasize more that many if not most fish diseases, especially bacterial or fungal in nature (including secondary infections to parasitic infestations) have a background issue. Failure to eliminate this background issue(s) will often result in failure of treatment.
Often the "background issue" is more than half the problem, so a good part of the treatment plan is REMOVING this background issue!!
A good analogy I like to use as to why it is so important to eliminate these issues is this:
"Not correcting causes or background issues is akin to standing in a burning building asking for a treatment for burns, while not leaving the burning building"

Gill, How to treat sick fish, 3 Unfortunately in my dealing with questions of what one should treat for a given set of symptoms, I have found that for the majority of these questions, the person asking the question either only addresses underlying issues in part or not at all.
Often this is not because the person does not want to, but they simply do not have the means or the availability for whatever reason to do so.
I would also point out, and while this may seem a bit harsh, it is still the reality, and that is this is still not a valid excuse to continue to ask for alternative treatments or complain to persons such as myself that the treatment failed when proper procedures have not been completely followed.

I personally spend a copious amount of time writing articles, answering questions, or even paying staff to help for free, but please remember that one needs to obviously follow the medication course prescribed, but just as importantly if not more so, deal with ALL underlying causes to a given fish illness problem. So repeatedly going in circles when not following exactly advice given is in my opinion disrespectful to the person who is trying to help you with your fish illness issue.

When you are asking others for help, whether it be online or at your local fish store, make sure you ALWAYS provide background first; including ALL water parameters (mineral Cations too), filtration, maintenance, feeding, & fish kept. Past fish treatment history is important too.
I cannot tell readers how many times people have asked for my help and told me that their water parameters were OK/good, but when pressed to provide actual COMPLETE numbers or I went out personally and checked, the water parameters were anything but OK/good. Often the important KH & GH tests were missed too, partly due many well meaning aquarium keepers fooled into thinking that their "API Master Test Kit" was all they need (a symptom of shopping discounters or getting information from "cut & paste" internet articles, videos or forums).

As an analogy; your personal Doctor always has your history, takes your vital statistics, etc., so why should we expect those we are asking to help us with our sick fish to guess, especially when one considers we often are asking others to help us sight unseen and with far less tools at our disposal than a Doctor would have?

Here first are basic procedures to check off before treating any fish sickness issue:

Recommended Aquarium Parameters for healthy fish, disease treatment

HERE IS AN EXCELLENT VIDEO ABOUT THE BEST AVAILABLE TREATMENTS:

Best Aquarium & Pond Medications
AAP Professional Aquarium & Pond Medications

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Next, here are causes for failure of any fish illness treatment regimen:

Gill, How to treat sick fish, 4



Other Recommended Reference & Product Sites

Hydro Sponge Filter

AAP Hydro Sponge Filters

THE PREMIUM Aquarium Sponge Filter with as much as 5 TIMES the bio and mechanical capacity of commonly sold Chinese knock offs!!
Definitely worth the extra $1-3





UV Replacement Bulbs, LampsUV Replacement Lamps/Bulbs; Aquarium or Pond
For TRUE High Output, Hot Cathode, Low Pressure UVC Germicidal Bulbs, for aquarium or pond



PUR or RQE, YouTube Video Fail- Guide to lighting a planted tank

AquaRay Ultra Premium Aquarium LED Lights
Highest in PUR, The ONLY LED with an IP67 rating or higher for water proofing along with a full 5 year warranty to back them up!
Why purchase brands without this rating such as the Finnex, Current, or Fluval only to be essentially placing an electronic light emitting device over your humid aquarium with little or no guarantee? In the long term, you WILL PAT MORE!



TMC V2 RO Filter systems; the very best you can buy with TDS meter (far superior to 4 stage RO/DI systems sold via Bulk Reef Supply, Amazon, or eBay that use the inferior cellulose triacetate membrane made by Dow):
Reverse Osmosis Aquarium Water Filter, TDSReverse Osmosis Aquarium Water Filters; with TDS Meter



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# posted by Steven : 11:36 AM

Whirling Disease (Myxobolus cerebralis) in Fish



By Carl Strohmeyer-PAMR 40+ years experience

Updated 5-18-23

Whirling Disease (Myxobolus cerebralis) in Fish, primarily SA Cichlids

Whirling disease is a disease of freshwater fish caused by the myxozoan parasite Myxobolus cerebralis. This infection/infestation is most commonly found in the wild found in the salmonid family of fish, however is not very common with most fish kept in aquariums except under the right conditions and that come from certain sources.

What is noteworthy mostly for prevention is that the parasite has two hosts — the fish itself and a freshwater oligochaete worm, popularly known as the Tubifex tubifex. This is a major reason these worms should not be fed, but unfortunately are a common source of cheap protein for many fish farms, especially those selling to discounters.
This has been documented in particular with Cichlids coming from certain fish farms.

There are two spore stages for Myxobolus cerebralis, one released from the fish and infective for worms, the other released from worms and infective for fish. Generally, the earlier the fish is first exposed and the higher the parasite exposure dose, the greater is the severity of the disease.
Water temperature also has an influence on all stages of the parasite life cycle since it slows its cycle over 70°F (21°C), as spores are released from the worm host when the temperature is between 10°C and 15° C.
However once infected, and while a higher temperature will check the spread, it will not significantly help for an infected fish based on my experience.

"Whirling Disease" gets its name from the radical tail-chasing swimming behavior of heavily and often fatally infected fish.
Clinical signs result from the presence of the parasite spores in the cartilage, causing inflammatory changes and pressure on spinal nerves. However, fish may become infected with the parasite and never show clinical signs; resulting in a difficult positive diagnosis of infection in these fish.

Whirling Disease, Myxobolus cerebralis, Lifecycle

Reference: Disease Strategy Manual - Whirling disease

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SIGNS OF INFECTION/DIAGNOSIS

Please note that symptoms do not always appear and even then these symptoms do not confirm a diagnosis of Myxobolus cerebralis, only microscopic slides can confirm.


This video below shows a trout with advanced "Whirling Disease", also displaying darkening of the tail that sometimes occurs in advanced stages.
Whirling Disease Video

YouTube; Whirling Disease


TREATMENT


References:

*Ichthyophonus in Fish
A similar disease in both symptoms and the fact both are more common in cooler waters or carried from cooler waters.

*Wikipedia; Myxobolus cerebralis


Other Recommended Reference & Product Sites

Fish Diseases, How to Treat Sick Fish
Fish Diseases | How to Treat Sick Fish


Freshwater Aquarium Care; Basics to Advanced


Premium UVC Replacement Lamps
For TRUE Premium, Hot Cathode, Low Pressure UVC Germicidal Bulbs, not the low output bulbs/lamps commonly sold at Amazon & eBay




Premium USDA Aquarium Safe Silicones




*Columnaris & Fungus Infections in Fish

*How Aquarium Medications Work; Part 1

The best in Quartz, Under gravel, and Titanium Submersible Heaters:




Aquarium Heaters








AquaRay Ultra Premium Aquarium LED Lights
Highest in PUR, The ONLY LED with an IP67 rating or higher for water proofing along with a full 5 year warranty to back them up! Why purchase brands without this rating such as the Finnex, Current, or Fluval only to be essentially placing an electronic light emitting device over your humid aquarium with little or no guarantee? In the long term, you WILL PAY MORE!



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# posted by Steven : 12:53 PM

Reef Aquarium Chemistry Maintenance

 

By Carl Strohmeyer-PAMR 40+ years experience

Updated 6/12/2023

Marine Fish, Reef Aquarium Chemistry

CALCIUM

Calcium is an essential element required by our reef aquarium. It is the building block for many hard corals, but is still required by all reef inhabitants, even fish! Your reef aquarium calcium level should be 400-450 ppm.
Since fish in marine environments constantly drink the water around them, they have a chemistry that is in sync with their environment.
A regular dosing/supply of calcium also supplies essential mineral Cations that again all reef inhabitants require.

Further Reading:
*Do Fish Drink? Osmoregulation in Fish
*Aquarium Redox, Including Cation replacement

Use of popular Calcium Chloride Dehydrate products only or along with economy Soda Ash Sodium Carbonate products sold by discount bulk suppliers can result in a slow build up of sodium chloride even with a stable specific gravity or salinity, resulting in less than optimal ionic balance for your reef aquarium. This over time is generally difficult to measure by marine/reef keepers, with the result of marine aquarium keepers potentially looking in to incorrect reasons for declining results (such as lighting).

This is where the 3 step AAP Balling Method is superior as NO additional Sodium Chloride is added nor is it concentrated.
The AAP Balling method also eliminates the use of a calcium reactor.
By not using a calcium reactor, this creates some other benefits:
  -The pH of the whole tank can be maintained at a higher level, because no acidic calcium reactor effluent are added to the tank anymore.
  -The addition of the balling mix provides all the depletion of elements.

Videos explaining the "Balling Method":

The Balling Method from Official North American Distributor AAP
AAP Balling Method Reef Tank Dosing | Chemistry | Calicum | Alkalinity

The Balling Method explained by Hans-Werner Balling
The Balling Method explained by Hans-Werner Balling

Calcium, Reef Advantage, Balling Method for marine aquarium chemistry Recommended Product Resources (sponsors this hobby with websites such as this):
*AAP Bio-Calcium Original Balling Set; Parts A/B/C.
*SeaChem/AAP Reef Advantage Calcium

Other methods of calcium maintenance include Kalkwasser, Calcium reactors, and products such as "Reef Calcium; polygluconate".

While Kalkwasser is popular among many advanced marine aquarists, caution should be used with this method of adding calcium to your marine aquarium. This is not to say Kalkwasser does not work, in fact introduced properly it is an excellent way to regulate calcium and alkalinity in saltwater aquariums.

Here is how Kalkwasser works:
Used properly Kalkwasser (Calcium Hydroxide) is slowly dripped into your aquarium, it captures free Carbon Dioxide present in the tank water and converts it to Bicarbonate ions.
However if you drip too fast or if there is not enough Carbon Dioxide available in the water, Carbonate ions will be formed which will make the Ca++ you are trying to add to your tank get wasted by the useless precipitation of Calcium Carbonate (often forming a white residue that precipitates out of your aquarium).
This too rapid addition of Kalkwasser may actually cause the Calcium and Alkalinity in your tank to go down instead of up.
See the equation below:
Ca++ + 2(HCO3-) + Ca++ + 2(OH-) <==> 2 CaCO3 + 2 H2O

Often even a slow drip of Kalkwasser (Calcium Hydroxide) can cause the above reaction if there is not enough CO2 present in your marine aquarium.
One method to avoid this is to add 15ml of 5% Distilled White Vinegar (Acetic Acid) into a 1 liter or 1 quart container.
Dissolve 1/2 teaspoon of Kalkwasser into the Acetic Acid, and then dilute to 1 liter (1 quart) volume with either RO/DI water (tank water can be used in a pinch).

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A Calcium Generator/Reactor is another popular method for maintenance of calcium and alkalinity as well as KH/pH regulation, especially in marine/reef tanks heavily stocked with stony corals.
A calcium Reactor works by providing a steady stream of calcium (and some Strontium too) by using CO2 in the reactor. The CO2 then "reacts" with the Calcium Carbonate producing calcium ions and carbonate ions (the carbonate ions increase alkalinity).
Although I have NOT had an instance where this was an "essential" device for my reef tanks, it can be very useful for previously noted reasons.
I have also had issues of too much CO2 getting into the marine/reef aquarium resulting in drops in pH and Alkalinity. This is not to say CO2 is "bad" for a marine/reef aquarium as it is needed for photosynthesis in the same way it is needed in a freshwater planted aquarium, however a CO2 level that constantly crashes your pH/Alkalinity is simply too much CO2!

Under normal circumstances/conditions a Fluidized Filter utilizing Oolitic sand media can accomplish similar results, however for high bio load reef tanks with large amounts of stony corals, a Calcium Reactor will produce more calcium.

Reef Aquarium Chemistry Maintenance

Kalkwasser and Calcium Reactor Information Referenced from:
*Aquarium Chemistry; Use Of Kalkwasser, Calcium Reactors

Resource for basic but accurate Calcium Test Kit:
API/AAP Calcium Test Kit

Resource high performance Fluidized Sand Bed Filters:
Fluidized Sand Bed Filters from AAP

ALKALINITY

Which is better Sodium Carbonate vs Bicarbonate?

First what is the chemical difference:
Sodium Carbonate = NaCO3--
Sodium Bicarbonate = NaHCO3- (the "Bi" means two, as in H + CO3)

Next, a little about pH since alkalinity is what generally stabilizes pH in our aquariums.
pH = a measurement of H+ and the more H+ the lower the pH and less Alkalinity in short. Molar value wise, it takes twice as much as Bicarbonate as Carbonate to raise the Alkalinity up 1 Equilibrium unit. Volume wise it is 0.6 tsp of Bicarbonate vs. 0.4 tsp of Carbonate to raise the Alkalinity 1 milliequivalent (mEq) / or 2.8 dKH in 10 gals.
Weight wise, is it is 3 grams vs. 2 grams.

Bicarbonate, due to that H, has less impact on pH than Carbonate.
Bicarbonate is mostly for raising the Alkalinity along with pH maintenance, while Carbonate is for raising the Alkalinity and pH.

Carbonate used only by itself should only be used if you have a low pH and Alkalinity. If it's to buffer up the Alkalinity, Bicarbonate is better.

Generally in a healthy/balanced reef aquarium where excess CO2 is not being produced or introduced (such as with a Calcium Reactor), a Bicarbonate is the better choice for an ionically blended bicarbonate with other elements in ionic balance such as SeaChem/AAP Reef Builder or used in the balling Method, NOT an economy Soda Ash Sodium Carbonate that is often sold by bulk aquarium supply discounters.
My experience has shown that Soda Ash Sodium Carbonate will not show up as a problem short term, but long term this WILL show up with lower alkalinity reserves and a slowly deteriorating ionic balance over time (unless large water changes are performed regularly with a quality marine salt blend). This will also show up as a less than desirable rH over time.

Recommended Product Resource (sponsors this hobby with websites such as this):
SeaChem/AAP Reef Builder

Sodium (Na+) more or less accumulates over time, as does the SO4 and Chlorides from non-ionically balanced use of calcium supplements, alkaline buffers, and minor/trace elements. This is why water changes are often needed to keep the chemistry in balance even though specific gravity/salinity is "spot on". Hence my recommendation of the AAP Balling Method or ionically SeaChem supplements.

It is common for the pH to drop over night, especially if the alkalinity is less than 8 dKH. This pH drop is from animals and plants giving off CO2 at night. The reason why it may not hold at a lower Alkalinity is also a night thing of animals and plants "leaching" out things more so, which can have a greater impact on the Alkalinity and pH as they yield acids.
A common limnological [1] term for Alkalinity is ANC ("Acid Neutralizing Capacity"). These affect the pH and Alkalinity. Although it's not often heard of in the aquarium keeping hobby, there's also Acidity, BNC, ("Base Neutralizing Capacity"). It's the opposite of Alkalinity.

Recommended discussion:
Sodium Carbonate vs Bicarbonate; from Manhattan Reefs

References:
[1] "Limnology": The scientific study of the life and phenomena of fresh water, especially lakes and ponds (Adj. limnological - of or relating to limnology).

TRACE/MINOR ELEMENTS

Many trace and some minor elements are not depleted at the same rate as alkalinity and calcium. In my experience not every reef or even marine fish/FOWLR aquarium is the same when it comes to depletion of trace, minor, or major elements.
There is also disagreement among many with what is a minor, trace or major element with websites such as "Live Aquaria" calling Strontium a major element, where as based on its percentage it clearly falls into the category of minor or trace element.

SEE THE LIST BELOW FOR THE MAKE UP OF THE OCEAN:

Regardless of what we call each element, it's important to keep your reef or even fish only marine aquariums as close to natural percentages as possible. Although we often find keeping Calcium slightly higher works to our advantage in the closed system most any marine aquarium is in reality.

Recommended Reef Chemistry Calcium Method, 3 Part Balling
For this reason, we need to find a method, which works best for us AND our aquarium, not what seems like the method de-jour of the day. As well, just because something might seem more complex, does not necessarily make it better either.
So, if you are a beginner, do NOT feel pressured by the so-called pros in many forums, which insist that it's their way or the highway (this is also not to say their method does not work, only that often these over involved methods do not work any better than more simple methods).

As noted earlier, also be careful of popular economy methods, which use bulk Soda Ash Sodium Carbonate and Calcium, then leave out elements, which often get used in conjunction at similar rates such as Magnesium and Strontium. This is still why I prefer the SeaChem or Complete Balling Method over the Economy dosing, Calcium Reactor, or Kalkwasser methods.



Here are a few key Minor/Trace Elements:

TO SUM IT UP:

The marine aquarium has to have some basic chemistry understanding to maintain a successful tank. There are a handful of methods, which use different dosing methods, based on science and budget.
The most popular method used is different between different groups/nationalities of reef keepers. While there might be different successful ways to keep aquariums, with many examples, there are methods, which have been proven to be more successful than others, when looking at the details of the tank health.

What I personally find frustrating is not the different methods, often that involve understandable budgets; is rather the insistence by some, often by popular persons in social media that certain aspects are essential while ignoring aspects that would actually make more difference.

Case in point is the myth perpetuated by marketers and then picked by non discerning (or paid off) popular YouTube channels or other social media personalities that the use of DI water is essential for marine reef aquariums, all the while using inferior salt mixes or alkalinity and calcium maintenance methods.
All the addition of a DI chamber does for you is lower TDS somewhat compared to a good RO system and remove ions that would result in a residual higher pH (assuming the pH was high in the tap water).

Saltwater by nature is high in TDS and your tap water has to meet certain standards for toxins such as arsenic, so running a GOOD RO unit (not a cheap poorly made one) should lower your TDS enough to be sure there is nothing toxic of any consequence. Better to then spend your money on better slat mixes and better marine chemistry maintenance rather than doing this part "on the cheap" as many do while wasting their money on elaborate RO/DI systems after falling for the "cut and paste marketing".
Really about the ONLY time you would need this additional DI chamber is if you are on a well with very high nitrates (a good RO system still removes most nitrates) or you are running off from a home water softener unit.

Funny thing is, these same persons who will argue the use of getting every last TDS because they worry about 1 part in a billion of arsenic or similar are the same ones who have argued the use of why they should use a USDA approved silicone for their aquarium instead of a cheap unapproved hardware brand silicone or a less efficient but popular LED fixture that now have come to dominate the market despite simple science.

Further Reading:
*Aquarium Silicone, Tank Repair, Applications, DIY, How To Use
*Use of RO, DI, Softwater in Aquariums
*Aquarium Lighting; Facts & Information

Keeping a reef tank as close as possible to natural ocean water conditions has always been the advanced marine keepers goal. With the addition of dosing a third part of trace minerals, which help keep an ionic balance, this really is the closest to natural sea water any aquarium keeper can keep. These minerals listed in this Reef Chemistry Article and the suggestions on how to maintain, really are the best current professional advice anyone can take and apply to their reef tank.


Other Recommended Reference & Product Sites

PUR or RQE, YouTube Video Fail- Guide to lighting a planted tank

Reef Aquarium Care Basics
Saltwater Aquarium Information; Basic to Advanced


Aquarium or Pond UV Sterilization/p>

AquaRay Ultra Premium Aquarium LED Lights
Highest in PUR, The ONLY LED with an IP67 rating or higher for water proofing along with a full 5 year warranty to back them up!
Why purchase brands without this rating such as the Finnex, Current, or Fluval only to be essentially placing an electronic light emitting device over your humid aquarium with little or no guarantee? In the long term, you WILL PAT MORE!



Two Little Fishies Premium Fluidized Sand Bed Bio Filter
AAP Premium Fluidized Sand Bed Bio Filters

Premium, second to NONE Aquarium Bio Filters, that with Oolitic Sand also maintain essential marine aquarium calcium levels, alkalinity, & electrolytes that are important to ALL Marine life, Goldfish, African Cichlids, Livebearers & more




Nutramar Nori- Seaweed, 25 Sheet
Nutramar Nori- Seaweed (25 Sheet)

All natural roasted green seaweed, perfect for feeding marine herbivores and omnivores such as tangs, butterflies, and angelfish.
Enticing, nutritious, and easy to feed.Ingredients: Contains pure Pyropia sp. algae. No preservatives, artificial colors, or ingredients.






TMC V2 RO Filter systems; the very best you can buy with TDS meter (far superior to 4 stage RO/DI systems sold via Bulk Reef Supply, Amazon, or eBay that use the inferior cellulose triacetate membrane made by Dow):
Reverse Osmosis Aquarium Water Filter, TDSReverse Osmosis Aquarium Water Filters; with TDS Meter



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# posted by Steven : 1:31 PM

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AQUARIUM ANSWERS;
ARTICLES:
In Chronological order of writing with the newest at the top

  1. How to Treat Sick Fish
  2. Whirling Disease in Fish
  3. Reef Aquarium Chemistry Maintenance
  4. Use of RO, DI, Softwater in Aquariums
  5. Lighting Theory of a Planted Aquarium- RQE, PFY, PAS, & PUR
  6. Aquarium or Pond Bio Load
  7. Tuberculosis in Fish
  8. PUR vs PAR in Aquarium Lighting
  9. Head Pressure in Aquarium and Pond Water Pumps
  10. Fin/Tail Rot For Betta & ALL Fish
  11. Angelfish Virus/Aids
  12. Activated Carbon
  13. Fish Baths/Dips as an aid to treatment
  14. Streptococcus gram positive bacterium in aquariums, Eye Infections
  15. Hydrogen Sulfide
    production in anaerobic De-Nitrification for Aquarium/Ponds
  16. Fish Shipping
  17. Aquarium Size, Fish Stunting
  18. Aquarium Algae,
    BBA & Brown Algae in particular
  19. Aquarium Salt (Sodium chloride) in Freshwater Aquariums
  20. Betta Habitat; Wild Bettas to Domestic Betta environment parameters
  21. HITH; Hole in the Head Disease
  22. Aquarium Protein Skimmers, Ozonizers
  23. Power Head/ Water Pump Review
  24. Molly Disease/ Mollies in an Aquarium
  25. Basic Fish Anatomy, Fin Identification
  26. Aquarium Moving/ Power Failures
  27. Octopus as Aquarium Pets
  28. Aquarium Nitrates
  29. Ichthyophonus protists, fungus in fish
  30. Aquarium and Pond Filter Media
    Types; Mechanical, Bio, Chemical
  31. Aquarium Water Conditioners (also Pond)
  32. Fish Parasites; Trematodes & Monogeneans; Annelids and Nematodes;
    Flukes, internal worms, Detritus Worms (often confused with Planaria), Micro Worms
  33. Aquarium Silicone Application;
    DIY Aquarium Repair & Glass thickness
  34. Pond Veggie Filters; DIY Bog Filter
  35. The difference between Plaster of Paris and Aquarium Products such a Wonder Shells:
  36. NEON TETRA DISEASE
    Identification, prevention & Treatment
  37. AQUARIUM TEST KITS; Use & Importance
  38. SEXING FISH; Basics
  39. Chocolate Chip, Knobby and Fromia Starfish
  40. Freshwater Velvet & Costia
  41. Usnic Acid as a Fish Remedy
  42. Aquarium Heaters; Types, information
  43. The Lateral Line in Fish, Lateral Line Disease
    or Head and Lateral Line Erosion (HLLE)
  44. Tap Water use in Aquarium; Chloramines, Chlorine
  45. Can Black Ghost Knife fish give an electric shock?
  46. Bio Wheel Review; Do Bio-Wheels really work?
  47. How do Fish Drink?
    PROPER OSMOTIC FUNCTION-
    Use of RO Water
  48. Cyclops, and Predatory Damselfly larvae
  49. Betta with Dropsy;
    Treatment and Prevention of DROPSY in all fish
  50. pH and KH problems in African Cichlid Aquarium
  51. Aquarium Gravel, which size?
  52. Blue green algae, Cyanobacteria in Ponds/Aquariums
  53. AQUARIUM ANSWERS DIRECTORY

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Only serious inquiries of at least $50,000 for everything (including inventory) from qualified potential buyers will be considered

Recommended Related Information Sites & Products from our family of PROFESSIONAL aquarium and pond websites:

For help with your Aquarium Chemistry:
Aquarium Chemistry; In Depth Information

World Class Aquarium Information
For unique aquatic products (most professionally tested) and information;
*American Aquarium

Free Shipping AAP

*Sponge Filters that far outperform all other brands or DIY:
*Patented Lustar Hydro Sponge Aquarium Filters

UV Replacement Bulbs/Lamps Directory:
*UV Bulbs directory

*A CLEAR POND; Care & Information

Fish Food Information:
PROPER FISH NUTRITION

Aquarium & Pond UV Sterilizer Use Articles
-Unique articles such as unique UV ideas as well as dispelling myths

Directions/ Instructions/Downloads; Aquarium Pond Products

Aqua UV versus TMC UV Sterilizer
VIDEO: Aqua Pond UV vs TMC AAP Pond UV Clarifier Sterilizer
A comparison of the two top large pond/aquarium-system UV Sterilizers and why the AAP/TMC comes out as the best when price and dwell time is considered

Best Aquarium & Pond Medications
VIDEO: AAP Professional Aquarium & Pond Medications
THE BEST AQUARIUM TREATMENTS ANYWHERE IN THE WORLD! Fresh Product found EXCLUSIVELY at AAP

#Best Aquarium & Pond Fish Products, Grants Pass Oregon

#eBay Community Forum & Bullying, Customer Service



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